French Cycling Holidays News

Alice 'without pictures or.

Thu, 28 Aug 2014 00:00:00 +0000

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Entries open for La Marmotte

Thu, 03 Nov 2016 00:00:00 +0000

The date for next year's Marmotte Cyclosportive has been announced as 2nd July. In a break from tradition, 2017's event will be run on a Sunday (Sportcommunication tell us that the local Gendarmerie have become concerned with traffic disruption on the race's usual Saturday start, so this change may well be permanent).

This year's route is the normal historic one, taking in the Cols du Glandon, du Télégraphe, du Galibier, descending the Col du Lauteret before tackling the famous 21 hairpins of L'Alpe D'Huez.

As usual, French Cycling Holidays has guaranteed entries to the event and luxury accommodation in L'Alpe D'Huez; and as usual we will have 2 private feed stations so you can avoid the crush at the official ones!

Welcome to the new website!

Mon, 21 Nov 2016 00:00:00 +0000

We've finally launched the new site, we hope you like it! The new site should work a lot better on handheld devices like smartphones and tablets- hopefully retaining the functionality of the old site. We have also included a secure payment gateway for online bookings, so no printing out booking forms any more (unless you really want to!)

As the new website is in its infancy, we've doubtless overlooked a few things that could make it better- your feedback and suggestions would be genuinely appreciated!

The FCH Team.

Recipe of the month - Galette des Rois

Fri, 25 Nov 2016 00:00:00 +0000

Galette des Rois

We posted this recipe a couple of years ago, but we make no apologies about repeating it - it is quick and easy to make (Neither Simon nor I would make it onto The Great British Bake-Off!) but more importantly it is indulgent and delicious! No Christmas Holiday in France would be complete without a Galette des Rois!

The Galette des Rois is a cake traditionally shared at Epiphany, on 6 January (Twelfth Night). It celebrates the arrival of the Three Wise Men in Bethlehem. The Galette is a puff pastry cake, with a small charm, the fève (literally 'the bean'), hidden inside (much as a lucky sixpence is hidden in a Christmas pudding in Britain). It is filled with frangipane, a cream made from sweet almonds, butter, eggs and sugar.

Epiphany corresponds to the moment when the baby Jesus is presented to the Three Wise Men, to give their gifts. Like many Christian festivals, the date of Epiphany corresponds to what was originally a pagan festival. In the past, the Romans celebrated Saturnalia, the festival of the winter solstice, at which a king or queen was chosen for one day, by means of a white or black bean hidden in a cake.

We have borrowed a recipe from Raymond Blanc, chef-proprietor of the Manoir au Quatre Saisons near Oxford, which is a fabulous destination if you want to pamper yourself with a weekend of Michelin-starred luxury!

Ingredients Required

400g Puff pastry, all butter, ready rolled, 2 sheets

For the almond cream

75g Butter, unsalted, at room temperature

75g Icing sugar

75g Almond powder

1 Egg

1 Egg yolk

1 tbsp Dark rum or cognac

Cooking Method

Cutting out the circles of pastry

You will get two sheets of pastry – 35 / 22.5 cm in a pack, so cut a 20cm circle for the base from one sheet and a 22cm circle for the top out of the other sheet; refrigerate for a minimum of 1hour. Any excess pastry can be kept for other use.

Making the almond cream

Preheat the oven to 180°C. In a large bowl, whisk all the ingredients together and mix to a smooth texture; reserve in the fridge.

Making the Galette

Spoon the almond cream into the centre of the puff pastry reserved for the base. With a palette knife spread the cream into an even circle leaving a 2cm gap from the edge. Brush the beaten egg yolk mixture around the 2cm gap and carefully drape the top circle of pastry neatly on top, press gently to expel all the air and using your thumb seal the pastry all around the edge. Chill or deep freeze the galette for 1 hour to firm up the pastry and with a sharp knife, trim the edge of the galette to an even circle so that it rises evenly.

With the back of a knife crimp the outside edge of the pastry all around . Here you can use your artistic flair.

Scoring the Galette & egg washing

Brush the Galette with beaten egg yolk. With the side of a fork or back of a knife, start from the centre of the Galette and score a spiral right up to the edge of the pastry. Repeat this to achieve an attractive design (if you feel unsure you could just simply criss cross the top of the galette).

Cooking the Galette

Cook in the preheated oven at 180°C for 45 minutes. Leave it to rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Whoever gets the slice with the charm in it becomes King or Queen for the day - but mind your teeth!

Lascaux 4 - a new prehistoric experience!

Sun, 04 Dec 2016 00:00:00 +0000

A longstanding highlight of our Dordogne Tour is the Lascaux caves - a world heritage site famed for its stunning prehistoric cave paintings.

In the Dordogne village of Montignac, the story of the discovery of the perhaps the most haunting example of prehistoric art has entered local folklore.

On 8 September 1940, a local youth, Marcel Ravidat, was out with his dog, Robot, when it chased a rabbit into a hole in the ground. The 17-year-old rescued his pet, and returned a few days later with three friends to explore what appeared to be an underground cavern. Clambering down, they entered a grotto where the flickering light of their oil lamp lit upon a painting of a bull.

Ravidat had stumbled across what became known as Lascaux, a of subterranean caves decorated with drawings and paintings dating back 22,000 years to the palaeolithic era.

The depictions of horses, bulls, bison, goats, deer, cows, as well as lions, a bear, a rhinoceros and even a unicorn were so strikingly beautiful that Henri Breuil, the pre-eminent expert on prehistoric sites, declared the grotto was a “prehistoric Sistine chapel”.

The opening of Lascaux Cave after World War II changed the cave environment. The exhalations of 1,200 visitors per day, presence of light, and changes in air circulation have created a number of problems. Lichens and crystals began to appear on the walls in the late 1950s, leading to closure of the caves in 1963. Lascaux II, a replica of the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery located 200 meters away from the original, was opened in 1983, so that visitors may view the painted scenes without harming the originals. Now that site has also been adversely affected by the large numbers of visitors, a second, larger, recreation has been built representing the whole of the original site, recreating it in the smallest detail using original painting techniques. The visitor centre will also have interactive displays and a 3-D theatre, and promises to be a stunning experience.

The centre opens 15/12/2016. We will, of course, feature the new centre as part of our Dordogne tour! The video below gives an idea of how the new exhibition will look. It's in French, but you will get the idea!

Bourgogne Aligoté and the Kir Cocktail

Mon, 20 Feb 2017 00:00:00 +0000

The story of Kir and Aligoté – Burgundy’s forgotten grape.

When you think of white Burgundy, you think of Chardonnay. Indeed, some wine buffs would tell you that all white Burgundy is made with the Chardonnay grape – even the village of Chardonnay sits in the hills overlooking Macon and Tournus in the heart of the Côte Maconnais.

Aligoté and Chardonnay were both indigenous grape varieties of Burgundy. However Chardonnay was the easier grape to grow, and deemed more appealing to popular taste. In the same way that the Pinot Noir grape, (which had the support of the Dukes of Burgundy) replaced Gamay, to become the predominant red grape variety in the region, so the Aligoté vines were moved out onto low lying areas where the grape was never going to give of its best. When poor location is combined with 'traditional’ farming techniques, (no ploughing, artificial fertilisers, pesticides etc), the results can be poor indeed.

However, when the poor old Aligoté grape is given the respect it deserves, planted on decent sites and benefiting from modern winemaking methods, the results can be a revelation. Full of fruit and accompanying cheese and white meats beautifully, a super example can be had from Jean Fournier in Marsannay (very close to Dijon and the final hotel on our Burgundy Tour!).

However, back in the day when the Aligoté grape was very much the poor relation, the mayor of Dijon, Felix Kir, found a way of cutting the cost of civic receptions and at the same time promoting the local product! Taking the very acidic but economical Aligoté wine, and adding a measure of the local Crème de Cassis blackcurrant liqueur, the resulting aperitif was an instant hit. It became so popular it was named in his honour, and although different liqueurs have been used for different flavours, the true Kir is Bourgogne Aligoté and Crème de Cassis de Dijon!

As a footnote, just as Cassis is used to flavour an unremarkable wine and make it special, Kir Royale can be made with Cremant de Bourgogne sparkling wine – to use Champagne is bonkers!

Bosch and Bruegel in Provence

Mon, 27 Feb 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Carrière des Lumières

One of the highlights on our Provence Roman Heritage Tour is the Carrière des Lumières, literally the Quarry of Lights. Situated in the rocky landscape that inspired Danté to write his Inferno, this is a disused limestone quarry that has been converted, in spectacular and typically French fashion, into a breath-taking sound and light experience.

Using state of the art technologies, images are projected on the monumental sheer sided rock faces of the underground quarry, with musical accompaniment to fit the mood. Each year, a different theme is chosen, often celebrating a particular artist. Previous themes have been the works of Van Gogh, Paul Gauguin, Australia and its Aboriginal art, Cezanne…

For 2017 expect the weird and wonderful as the works of Hieronymus Bosch and Peter Bruegel the Elder are the subject of the exhibition. Works like Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights and Bruegel’s Peasant Wedding take on a whole new perspective when projected in crisp detail 12 metres high, and accompanied by music like Carl Orff’s Carmina Burana for the Bosch’s nightmare visions or Beethoven’s Pastoral for Bruegel’s portrayal of 15th Century peasant life, it’s a totally immersive experience.

A really unforgettable visit, we’re looking forward to our first one of 2017!

Update from Château La Tour de Chollet!

Mon, 02 Oct 2017 00:00:00 +0000

One of the pleasures of cycling in France is riding through the country's vineyards, full of grapes ready to be made into wine - a staple of French culture and dining, of course. Last week we got an email from our friends at Château La Tour de Chollet, who you can visit on one of our Bordeaux cycling tours. They've had a good quality harvest this year, so it's the perfect time to book a cycling vacation for next year so you can pick up one of their signature wines!

Dear French Cycling Holidays

Just a quick update and some photos of the merlot and cabernet franc harvest. We picked yesterday, the 26th September, a few days earlier than normal, despite the first 2 weeks of September being unseasonably cold and and wet. The weather was cool and dry, perfect picking conditions. As expected the yields are down, at 50% less than last year - but most importantly the quality is good, with the early analysis showing excellent grape maturity, with good levels of sugar (potential 13.5% alcohol) and acidity.

As shown in the photo above we pick the red grapes with a harvest machine (our neighbour's). This allows for speedy picking, and the new high tech machine also removes any stems so the grapes are in great condition when they arrive in the chai (winery). Please scroll down to see the rest of the harvest explained in photos.

Just a quick reminder that as well as our current range of wines - the 2011 prestige (just 50 bottles left, so be quick if you want some more!), the 2014 classique, the 2015 blanc sec exceptionnel and the 2016 rose - we have released the last few cases of the wonderful 2010 classique - visit our online shop or drop us an email to order.

Enjoy the harvest!

1. Harvest started at 6am - we start before sunrise so that the grapes are safely in the tank whilst it's still cool, reducing the risk of oxidation and allowing easier temperature control in the wine making process.

2. The harvest machine straddles the vine and shakes it. Ripe grapes are like any other ripe fruit, if you shake the tree the fruit falls off. The machine then removes the stems, and the grapes are collected in panniers.

3. When the panniers are full, the grapes are tipped into a waiting trailer and taken back to the chai.

4. Our vineyards surround the property so the transportation only takes a couple of minutes.

5. The grapes are then pumped directly into the tank.

6. This is the view from the top of the tank. The object in the bottom right is a guard that stops the tap from being blocked by the grape skins.

7. The free run juice collects in a compartment at the bottom of the harvest trailer and is pumped into a different tank.

8. The juice is left to settle over night to be added back to the skins the following day, this allows us to remove any heavy matter.

9. This photo shows the merlot grapes in the trailer.

The next stage is the wine making. After a few days of cold soaking, the sugar to alcohol fermentation starts, followed by removal of the skins and then the malolactic fermentation.

10. This is what is left on the vine after the grapes are picked by machine.

After the harvest the job is finished for the vines for this season. Pruning begins in December and the vines will put out new shoots in March for the 2018 vintage.

French Cycling Holidays' tours for 2018 are now open for inquiries and booking; we have Bordeaux riding tours running from May through to the end of September, available now.

Loire Valley: The gardens of le Château de Chambord

Tue, 10 Oct 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Though it's one of the biggest and most beautiful châteaux in the Loire Valley, built in the 16th century for King Francis I, for a long time the historic gardens of the Château de Chambord have been in a state of disrepair and in need of renovation; and after the gardens were flooded during heavy floods in France last summer, that need only got more dire. But thanks to a generous donation from U.S. billionaire and lover of French culture Stephen Schwarzman, the chateau and its gardens — have been restored to their full glory, ready to be experienced by the public once again.

For more pictures of the gardens of Chambord, video of the restoration work, and the history of the château, you can visit Chambord's website here. And if that entices you, you can visit the gardens and ride through the vast hunting park around it on one of our Loire Valley cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Loire Valley tours running from June to September.

New Road Bike Tour 2018! Lake Annecy and the Alps!

Tue, 17 Oct 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Our new road bike tour for 2018 showcases the amazing Lake Annecy and surrounding mountain scenery and cols. Lake Annecy and the area may be a somewhat lesser known area by cycling enthusiasts outside of France, but ask any local and they will tell you this area and the quiet roads and tree covered climbs of the nearby UNESCO Parc de Bauges make this a cycling mecca!

Annecy is also on the doorsteps of the St Jean de Maurienne Valley (the largest uphill cycling area in the world!) and the Alps. We will take in the famous Col de Madeleine this week to earn ourselves the famous Myrtille tart — only available at the top! The cycling community in the area has grown as has the number of cycling cafes, and we ensure that our tour has a few stops at bASECAMP in Talloires (a cycling shop and cafe a few steps away from the shores of Lake Annecy and our chosen rental bike partner should you not wish to travel with your own bike).

Other famous climbs on the tour include the Col des Saisies and the Col d'Aravis, which have featured in the Tour de France and Étape du Tour many times over the last couple of decades.

Bookings are now live for our Lake Annecy tour for July 2018. There are limited spaces on the tour, so please contact us if you are interested — or schedule a private tour for six or more people!

Normandy: Land of Cream and Caramel

Tue, 21 Nov 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Famous for its butter, cream and cheese, the Normandy village of Isigny-sur-mer is the only village in France to have an appelation controllée for its dairy products. The dairy production of the region - which also lends its name to the ancestors of Walt Disney, via the surname "d'Isigny" - is overseen by the Isigny Sainte-Mère cooperative, which sells its products across the world, from Australia and the USA to South Africa and Brazil.

Thanks to its butter production, Normandy is also famous for its salted caramel! One such producer is the Vains-based Cara-Meuh! ("Cara-moo!" for us English speakers), which makes a wide selection of delicious caramel treats.

To find out more more about the Isigny-Sainte-Mère cooperative and its history, you can visit its website here, and Cara-Meuh!'s website here. And if either of those tempt your tastebuds, you can visit both Isigny and Cara-Meuh on our Normandy cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Normandy tours running from June to July.

Recipe of the month - Bûche de Noël

Fri, 01 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Bûche de Noël

With Christmas just around the corner, there's a whole lot to plan for, from presents to decorations to Christmas dinner - but we can help a little with the last of those, with a recipe for a very French Christmas dessert: a Bûche de Noël!

The Bûche de Noël ("Yule log" to our English-speaking audience!) was first created in the late 1800s by a French pastry chef to homage the European Christmas tradition of the Yule log, but the delicious dessert quickly took on a life of its own and has survived long after the log itself fell out of common use. With a craggy chocolate surface and a dusting of snow-like icing sugar, the Bûche de Noël is at home on anyone's Christmas dinner table.

We've borrowed this delicious chocolate log recipe from Paul Hollywood, of Great British Bake-Off fame; with its raspberry and cream filling, this wintertime treat puts a new spin on a classic favorite.

Ingredients Required

Vegetable oil, for greasing
150g golden caster sugar
6 large eggs, separated
250g good-quality dark chocolate
Icing sugar, for dusting

For the cream filling

400ml double cream, lightly whipped
150g raspberry, defrosted if frozen
A little Drambuie liqueur (optional)

For the chocolate buttercream

125g unsalted butter, softened
225g golden icing sugar
25g cocoa powder, sifted
1 tbsp milk

Cooking Method

Heat oven to 220C/200C fan /gas 7. Line a 23 x 33cm Swiss roll tin with baking parchment and oil lightly. Whisk the caster sugar and yolks in a bowl until pale and thick. Melt the chocolate with 4 tbsp cold water in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water. Stir in the sugar mix.
Whisk egg whites to stiff peaks. Stir a spoonful into the chocolate, then fold in remaining using a large metal spoon. Pour batter into tin and bake for 12-14 mins until risen and just firm. Leave in tin until cold.
Lay a sheet of baking parchment on a board. With one bold movement, turn the cake onto the paper, then lift off the tin. Carefully peel away the lining paper.
Spread the whipped cream all over the cake, then scatter over the berries with a dribble of Drambuie, if you like. Starting at the long side opposite you, use the paper to roll the cake towards you. Transfer to a serving dish.
For the buttercream, beat the butter, then sift in sugar and cocoa. Add milk and mix together. Spread over cake, use a fork to create a log effect, and chill until needed. Decorate, dust with icing sugar and serve for everyone to enjoy!

_{Image and recipe taken from the BBC Good Food website.}

French Wines at Christmas, Part One - Reds

Tue, 05 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

Many people get in a tizz about which wines to serve over the holiday season, and the huge choice on offer can seem mind-boggling, especially if you are buying by the case for parties and family get-togethers, and don’t want to get it wrong.

Fear not, if you want a wine that is hearty, warming, fruity, and alcoholic (!) you can safely narrow your choice down to the south of France. The Côtes du Rhône and the Languedoc specialise in wines that the French would describe as ‘costaud’ which loosely translates as ‘beefy’ or ‘powerful’ and can equally be used to described men – a Rugby player might well be described as ‘costaud’!

The signature grapes of the region are Grenache and Syrah (Shiraz) often with a touch of Mourvedre. Of course if French wines are prohibitively expensive where you are, wines made from these grapes will have similar qualities, but make sure that they come from hot areas, as it is the sun that results in the high sugar content and hence the high alcohol content!

A perfect accompaniment to roast beef or lamb, these reds are also great with strong cheeses and also make great quaffing party wine!

The doyenne of the southern Rhône reds is the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, which in addition to its Syrah Grenache foundation can include up to 11 additional varieties. When choosing Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, there can be considerable variation between wineries, so it is best to stick to one of the prestige brands, like Beaucastel or Vieux Télégraphe, or if your budget is slightly less rarified, Château Mont-Redon which we visit for a delightful tasting on our Provence Roman Heritage cycling tour.

If your budget is a little more modest, steer clear of the cheaper Châteauneuf and go for a Côte du Rhône Villages appellation. Cairanne, Gigondas, Lirac are all names to watch out for, being villages close to Châteauneuf but not commanding the price premium. Further west the Languedoc region has even more reasonably priced wines – Saint-Chinian, Faugères, Corbières are typical of the region, although as you travel further west into the Corbières you will find Carignan grapes coming into the mix which add a more tannic edge if that is your preference. Both our Languedoc and Mediterranean bike tours have plenty of vineyard visits and tasting opportunities if you want to do some in depth research!

If you are looking for wine for mulling, you will probably be better off with the cheapest local red you can find, as heating a wine with sugar, spice and fruit will mask the qualities (and lack thereof!) of any bottle! However if you are lucky enough to live in France or in the UK close enough to pop across the channel, you will find basic generic Côtes du Rhône at around 3.50€ a bottle – so mull away!

Cheers!

French Wines at Christmas, Part Two - Whites (and some reds!)

Wed, 06 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

In part one we discussed the best red wines for parties and to go with roasts and cheese. In part two we look at the tricky business of finding a wine to accompany the traditional Christmas dinner centrepiece – the turkey.

Turkey is quite delicate in flavour and in particular its low fat content means that there is little to soften the tannic edge of more robust reds, so stay away from reds with high tannin content like younger Bordeaux wines. If red is your preference, pinot noir from Burgundy, or Gamay from the Beaujolais, produce lighter, less overpowering wines that will complement the turkey. Top notch Burgundy reds such as can be found at the Château de Mersault (a fascinating visit and extensive tasting in its extensive underground cellars is included in our Burgundy Wine Explorer cycling tour) are extremely expensive, and less pricey options can be found from well reputed producers such as the Buxy Co-operative which we also visit.

Beaujolais villages such as Morgon and Fleurie produce delightful lighter reds which can be served a little cooler and have gorgeous strawberry and raspberry notes – these can be very affordable!

However, consensus amongst wine and food pairing experts is that white wine, in particular chardonnay, is the ideal partner for turkey. When considering white chardonnay, Bourgogne (Burgundy) and Chablis immediately spring to mind. The communes of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne Montrachet are probably the pinnacle of the white winemaker’s art, and command suitably elevated prices. You can taste these on our Burgundy bike vacation! The co-operative at Buxy also has many deliciously affordable white oak aged Chardonnay wines, and after bringing home a few cases over the years we can whole-heartedly recommend their Montagny 1er Cru! Even more reasonable wines are available from the Bourgogne Côtes Maconnais region – as little as 6€ per bottle will get a very drinkable wine.

Finally – fizz! Whether it’s an aperitif before dinner or a New Year celebration, the pop of a champagne bottle puts everybody in the party mood. However, it doesn’t have to be champagne! There are plenty of delicious sparkling wines that can be enjoyed for a third or less than the equivalent champagnes. The Crémants from Alsace and Burgundy use the same methods and indeed the same grapes (pinot, chardonnay) as are used in Champagne. The sparkling Crémant d’Alsace from the Cave de Turkheim which we visit on our Alsace cycling tour is particularly recommended. The Loire Valley also a strong sparkling tradition – for parties stock up on the Crémant de Loire from the Monmousseau winery in Montrichard (our Loire tour takes in the fabulous underground tunnels).

For serious fizz drinking, the secret tip is a relatively unknown wine - Blanquette de Limoux from just south of the Medieval fortress of Carcassonne, the end point of our Mediterranean tour. Sparkling Blanquette predates Champagne by a couple of centuries, and as wine critic Victoria Moore says in the Telegraph “In Limoux they make really, really good sparkling wine. Not just good. It’s distinctive, with a fresh, edgy air of hedgerows and meadows and wild countryside.” And “When it comes to choosing between discount-store champagne and a crémant at a similar price, there’s no contest when it comes to quality – Crémant de Limoux every time.”

Mediterranean Coast: Carcassonne and the Cathar Crusades

Wed, 20 Dec 2017 00:00:00 +0000

The early 13th century was a dark time for the Mediterranean Coast. The Cathars - a Christian sect distinct from the Catholic church - were thriving in the south of France, but the Catholic Church did not recognise them as truly Christian, and when legate Pierre de Castelnau was murdered in 1208, Pope Innocent III declared the Albigensian Crusade to wipe out the Cathars. The Pope wrote to King Philip II to appeal for his intervention, and the King permitted his more ambitious barons, notably Simon de Montfort, to make war against the Cathars and their allies in the Languedoc.

Around 10,000 crusaders gathered for the beginning of the crusae during 1209, marching south from Lyon to the lands around Montpellier. It was in July that they reached Béziers, where they besieged the city, demanding that the Catholics in Béziers leave and the Cathars surrender; but when neither group did as ordered, the crusaders invaded the city, slaughtering the population and burning the city to the ground. When asked how the crusaders should distinguish the Cathars from the Catholics, papal legate Arnaud Amalric - the man in charge of the siege - is said to have replied "kill them all; God will know his own"; even the priests in the Béziers cathedral were put to the sword.

The crusaders' next target was the fortified city of Carcassone, where many Cathars had taken refuge from the invaders. The siege of the city did not last long; within a week the crusaders had cut off the water supply, and the defenders surrendered a week later. The people of Carcassonne were not massacred as Béziers had been; instead, they were expelled from the city, naked but for their "shifts and breeches". With the Viscount de Trencavel imprisoned in his own dungeon, Simon de Montfort was appointed the new viscount, and would go on to add to the city's fortifications after Trencavel died mysteriously three months later. The fall of Carcassonne also saw many other towns surrender without a fight.

Over the next year, the crusaders brought down the cities of Lastours and Minerve; however, their siege of Toulouse was short on men and supplies, and Raymond de Toulouse led a counter-attack against them. In 1213, the Cathars turned to King Peter II of Aragon (in northern Spain), for help; the king agreed to help thanks to his family connection to Raymond, but Pope Innocent denounced him and ordered the cursade renewed. Peter was struck down and killed in battle, and by 1215 Montfort was able to capture Toulouse for himself.

Despite having to deal with uprisings and Montfort's death, the crusaders hunted down the remaining Cathars over the next decade, with king Louis VIII heading the crusade; and though a few remained, the church's Inquisition prosecuted them for the remainder of the century, until Pope Clement V introduced new rules to restrict their power.

The repercussions of the crusade were many and long-lasting; scholars have argued that the crusade rendered the Catholic church weaker and more dependent on the French monarchy. But regardless, the crusade all but wiped out Catharism as a religious movement, and secured the power of the church in the south of France once more.

If you're intrigued by this slice of history, we visit both Béziers and Carcassonne on our Mediterranean Coast cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Mediterranean tours running from April to October.

Recipe of the month - Gâteau des Rois - Fancy version

Thu, 04 Jan 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Gâteau des Rois

Bonne année et bonne santé, as the French say! We've waved goodbye to 2017 and entered a new year, and what better way to celebrate it than observing the French tradition of l'Epiphanie - Three Kings' Day, on January 6th? While the north of France traditionally eats the Galette des Rois, in the south of France and in Provence, you're more likely to find families eating the ring-shaped Gâteau des Rois. We've provided a recipe here for you to make and eat this traditional Occitan treat for yourself.

Ingredients Required

For the glazed orange

4oz of sugar
4oz of water
1 orange
Glacé cherries

For the marzipan filling

200g of almond powder
200g of sugar
Half a glass of water

For the dough

20g of fresh yeast
50 ml milk
600g plain flour
2 eggs
100g sugar
200ml milk at room temperature
100g butter
5g salt
Grated orange and/or lemon peel

Cooking Method

Slice the orange without peeling, and boil it in water for 10 minutes.
Discard the orange's water. Mix the sugar with 4oz of water until dissolved with low heating (this is very important - the sugar should not be caramelized!).
Add the orange slices and keep in a pan covered with the low heating power for 1 hour; do not remove the cover from the pan, or the oranges will become hard!
Afterwards, remove and place them on a plate to cool down.
To make the marzipan, mix the almond powder with the sugar in a bowl, then add a little bit of water and keep mixing. If necessary add more water until you reach the marzipan consistency.
Mix the yeast with 50ml of milk and 100g of the flour in a bowl. Keep it aside to rest for 1 hour.
After letting it rest, mix the rest of the ingredients and add the yeast mix to it. Knead thoroughly for 15 minutes and let it rest for 2 hours.
Roll out the dough in a line, then add the marzipan filling in the middle and roll the dough to keep in the marzipan inside. Curl the roll into a circle shape and place on the baking pan. Place the orange slices and glacé cherries on top and "paint" with an egg yolk. Let it rest and rise for 2 more hours.
Bake in a preheated oven at 200º C for 15 minutes or until golden.

Traditionally, in Provence, a dried bean is baked into the cake, and whoever gets it in their slice is crowned "king for the day". If you want to do this, put it in the marzipan before rolling up the dough. Otherwise, just dig in!

Of course, if you're interested in more Provençal cuisine, we are running Provence tours - both Roman Heritage and Villages of the Luberon - in 2018, which are now available for enquiries and bookings for this year; we are running both tours from May to September.

Loire Valley: Château de Chenonceau and Diane de Poitiers

Wed, 10 Jan 2018 00:00:00 +0000

A château with a long and storied history, the Château de Chenonceau was first built between 1513 and 1521 by Thomas Bohier, who used it for hosting French nobility including King Francis I. However, by 1535 the Bohier family's debts to the Crown had become so great that King Francis siezed the château; and following Francis' death, his son - King Henry II - offered Chenonceaux to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, as a gift, despite his wife Catherine de Medici desperately wanting to own it.

A crafty and intellectual woman, Diane possessed a great amount of power within the French Court, even writing many of King Henry's official letters on his behalf; though the position of the "royal mistress" was expected and tolerated in an era when royal marriages were enacted solely for political and dynastic reasons, Henry's adoration for Diane caused a great amount of jealousy for Queen Catherine. Knowing that the château was still legally owned by the Crown, and thus could be taken from her if the king ever died; though years of complex legal maneuvers, including returning it to the now-impoverished Bohier family, Diane was able to take ownership of the castle for herself in 1555.

With the knowledge that the castle was hers, and the profits from the cultivation of the estate, Diane set about having it improved and enhanced: she had a new bridge built, connecting the castle to the opposite bank; expanded and improved the main building; and oversaw the planting of large flower and vegetable gardens along the banks of the River Cher, which the castle spans. The 19th century writer Gustave Flaubert wrote that Diane de Poitiers' bed, in the master bedroom, had an "extraordinary" effect on those who lay on it.

Unfortunately for Diane, her efforts to maneuver Chenonceau into her own hands proved somewhat fruitless. When King Henry died in 1559, Diane - who, despite Henry's pleas, was not admitted to see him or even invited to the funeral - was pressured into giving the Château de Chenonceau to Catherine, in exchange for Catherine's Château de Chaumont. Taking up residence in Chenonceau, Catherine did her best to strip the vestiges of Diane's ownership from the castle; but rather than destroy the garden Diane had created, Catherine instead created her own, intending to outdo her rival.

For more pictures and information on Chenonceau, you can visit the château's website here - and if you want to experience Diane's gardens (and Catherine's!) in person, we ride out to the castle on our Loire Valley cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Loire Valley tours running from June to September.

A tribute to Peter Mayle

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 00:00:00 +0000

On Thursday, Peter Mayle - writer of the best-selling memoir A Year in Provence - died in hospital near his home in Vaugines, a village in the Luberon. An English writer who moved to France in the late 80s with intentions to write a book, his plans were quickly derailed by all the distractions and curiosities of life around his new home in Ménerbes... and when he wrote to his agent with a long letter explaining the delays, he was surprised to recieve the suggestion that he write a book about his experiences instead.

Even the book's publisher wasn't sure that it had what it would take to sell, however; indeed, the managing director thought at first that it would flop completely. But thanks to Mayle's charisma and skill at self-promotion, coupled with a serialisation deal with the Sunday Times, a slow start gave way to the book becoming a bestseller - Mayle even had fans track him down and arrive at his house! Despite a belief from some French people that it took a patronising view of French provincial life, the book is one of the best-selling travel books worldwide (yes, including in France!) and has inspired travellers the world over to visit Provence and experience it themselves.

A man whose writing has shaped the face of the travel genre for more than 25 years, he will be sorely missed by fans and family alike.

Picasso and the Spanish masters in Provence

Wed, 07 Feb 2018 00:00:00 +0000

The Carrière des Lumières - the Quarry of Lights - is one of the highlights of our Provence Roman Heritage tour. Located at the heart of the Alpilles mountains, this former limestone quarry has become an incredible audio-visual experience to delight the senses, projecting animated images onto the enormous rock faces of the quarry, accompanied by specially-selected music.

For 2017, the theme was the works of Heironymus Bosch and Peter Bruegel, mixing snapshots of 15th century peasant life with bizarre visions of Hell. In 2018, however, things will be taking a more abstract route, intertwining the Cubist masterpieces of Pablo Picasso with the portraiture and coastal scenes of the Spanish masters - Francisco Goya, Santiago Rusiñol, Ignacio Zuloaga and Joaquín Sorolla, all topped off with the intense and emotional work of Picasso during World War II.

From 18th century Madrilenia to Guernica in 1937, the Carrière des Lumières presents two centuries of Spanish masterpieces of art. We can't wait to experience it - and if you can't either, why not try on of our Roman Heritage cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018? We have Provence tours running from June to September.

Languedoc and Provence: The Pont du Gard

Wed, 21 Feb 2018 00:00:00 +0000

The Roman Empire changed the face of the world with its innovations in the realm of the military, civics and engineering. One of those innovations was the creation of aqueducts to carry water from springs and streams to Roman cities; and among the most impressive of those was the Pont du Gard, an aqueduct bridge carrying water to Nemausus - or Nîmes, as it's known today.

The three-tiered bridge is a marvel of Roman architecture and engineering. It descends in height by only one inch, with the entire aquaduct system - which runs for 31 miles in total, on a winding path from the springs at Uzès to Nîmes - descends only 41 feet; pretty impressive for a system that long, especially given the simplicity of the technology that the Romans were working with!

Though the bridge fell into disuse and neglect during the 4th century as the Languedoc was disrupted by invaders, it continued to stand intact; the lower levels of the bridge were used as a toll bridge for civilians to cross the valley. However, it continued to fall into disrepair, and was significantly damaged during the 1620s when it was used to transport Huguenot artillery. It wouldn't be until 1850, when Napoleon III visited the bridge, that repair work would begin; he agreed to fund architect Charles Laisné to renovate the aqueduct, replacing eroded stone and enhancing the bridge's stability. The repairs were highly successful; in the past century it has survived not one, but three serious floods that washed away other bridges!

As a work of artistic and engineering genius that stands as a testament to the ingeniuity of the Romans, it is no surprise that the Pont du Gard has inspired artists and writers since its creation. If you want to visit the aqueduct yourself, there's a great opportunity to do so on our Languedoc cycling tours; and not only that, but we take a canoe trip down the river Gard and under the bridge on our Provence Roman Heritage tours! Our tours are now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Roman Heritage tours running from June to September, and a Languedoc tour in October. And if you want to organise a private tour for six or more people, contact us to schedule it!

Burgundy: Blackcurrants and history

Thu, 15 Mar 2018 00:00:00 +0000

If there's one thing that Burgundy is known for, it is its prized wines; its dry Pinot noir reds and Chardonnay whites. But while Burgundy is most famous for its grapes, it also has a proud history of blackcurrants, and the famed liqueur made from them - crème de cassis.

Though cassis liqueur has a long history in Burgundy, it was given new life when Félix Kir, mayor of the Burgundy city of Dijon, popularised the "blanc-cassis" cocktail - crème de cassis topped up with white wine - by offering it to delegations from other countries; Kir was a pioneer of the sister city movement in the aftermath of the Second World War, and thanks to him, Dijon is twinned with Mainz in Germany, York in Britain, and Dallas in the USA. Thanks to Mayor Kir's revival of the cocktail, local producers of crème de cassis asked him for the right to use his name, and so what was previously known as "blanc-cassis" became known as a kir cocktail.

Burgundy's pride in their blackcurrants is such that they even have a museum dedicated to it! Le Cassissium not only walks visitors through the history of the "Super Cassis", but also gives them a guided tour of the Védrenne liqueur factory - and, of course, the trip wouldn't be complete without the chance to sample the product!

If all of that sounds as enticing to you as it does to us, you can visit Le Cassissium on one of our Burgundy cycling tours, now open for enquiries and bookings for 2018; we have Burgundy tours running from June to September.

Recipe of the month - Salade niçoise

Mon, 30 Apr 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Salade niçoise

When you're looking for the perfect summer salad, there's only really one possible choice: the famous salade niçoise, first created in the French city of Nice. This Provençal salad has had many recipes over the years, but according to purists, only fresh and uncooked vegetables should be included - and who are we to argue with tradition? As such, we've borrowed a recipe from the late, great Chef Paul Bocuse for this month's recipe.

Ingredients Required

2 eggs
2 large tomatoes or 4 medium tomatoes
1 green pepper
1 cucumber
2 spring onions or small red onions
2 baby artichokes (optional)
1 garlic clove
4 anchovy filets
12 black olives
4 tbsp. olive oil
6 fresh basil leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

Place the eggs in a saucepan of cold water. Bring to a boil. Cook exactly 5 minutes. Gently tip out the hot water and refill with cold running water, immersing the eggs. Wait a moment and repeat. Leave the eggs sitting in the cold water until ready to shell them (this will make shelling easier).
Rinse the tomatoes and cut into wedges, removing the hard flesh around the stem.
Rinse the pepper. Slice the bottom half finely into rounds. Remove the core. Slice the top half finely into rounds or strips.
Rinse the cucumber and slice very finely on the bias.
Peel the onions and slice into thin strips or rounds.
If using baby artichokes, begin by preparing a small dish of cold water. Add the juice of half a lemon. Remove and discard the leaves and stem of the artichokes retaining only the heart. Remove and discard the choke. Plunge the hearts into the lemon water — this will prevent discoloration. Remove one heart and slice very thinly. Return the slices to the water. Repeat. Leave the slices immersed until ready to assemble the salad.
Peel the garlic clove, cut in half. Rub the inside of your salad bowl with the garlic.
Now assemble the salad. Arrange the tomatoes, pepper, cucumber, onions and artichoke slices if using. Peel the eggs, cut into quarters and place them on top of the other ingredients.
Cut the anchovy filets in half lengthwise and lay them on top of the other ingredients. Scatter the olives over the salad.
For the dressing, pour the olive oil into a small bowl or cup. Snip the basil leaves into the cup. Add some salt (go easy, as the anchovies and olives are already very salty) and grind in some black pepper.
Pour the sauce over the salad just before serving.

For the authentic French experience, serve with crusty bread and a chilled bottle of dry rosé. This delicious salad serves 2 as a main dish, or 4 as a starter.

Van Gogh at Saint Paul de la Mausole

Wed, 31 Oct 2018 00:00:00 +0000

For anybody thinking of taking our Provence Roman Heritage Tour, a fascinating new book might be interesting pre-tour reading for one of the tour highlights! The sanitorium at Saint-Paul-de-la-Mausole, on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy, has always been one of the most memorable visits of the tour.

Details of the most harrowing period in the life of Vincent van Gogh, including the names of the men who shared his year of confinement at the sanatorium, and his mental collapses when he tried to poison himself with his own paints, have been revealed in a book by author Martin Bailey.

It was a period of anguish but extraordinary creativity for Van Gogh, in which he produced some of his most dazzling and beloved works, now in museum collections across the world – all based on brief outings, the views through the barred window of his room and many days spent painting in the asylum gardens.

Bailey has traced the admissions register and other records from Saint-Paul de Mausole, a small asylum on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, for the period when Van Gogh was admitted as a private patient, a stay paid for by his brother Theo. The register shows Vincent van Gogh, 36, from Arles but born in the Netherlands, was admitted on 8 May 1889. Through the register, Bailey traced the 18 male patients including an elderly priest, Jean Revello, and Henri Enrico, who was described as constantly smashing up furniture and crockery. Bailey was able to match many of the names with death certificates and other evidence, and details of medical conditions and minimal treatment in a later book by the asylum director.

Revello, admitted two years before Van Gogh, aged 20, would spend the next half century in the asylum and die there in 1932. Van Gogh described fellow patients, whom he called “my companions in misfortune”, slumped into silent resignation, with no treatment and nothing to fill their days except the next stodgy meal, eaten with a spoon because of the risk from knives and forks. Some, however, were very troubled. In one letter, he described the long nights: “One continually hears shouts and terrible howls as of animals in a menagerie.”

The artist was judged by his brother and friends to be unfit to live alone after he mutilated himself, cutting off his ear and presenting it, wrapped in paper, to a young woman in a local brothel, following the collapse of a proposed artistic partnership with Paul Gauguin.

The register was key to discovering previously unknown details of the artist’s time there, including the fact that neither his friends from Arles, 16 miles (25km) away, nor Theo ever visited.

Theo Van Gogh was kept informed by the stream of illustrated letters from his brother, but also news from the asylum director of Van Gogh’s three serious collapses over the year, when the paints he tried to swallow had to be taken from him, and he was confined to a small, bare, locked room instead of his usual bright bedroom and separate studio on an upper floor.

The director, Théophile Peyron, wrote: “On several occasions he has attempted to poison himself, either by swallowing colours that he used for painting, or by ingesting paraffin, which he had taken from the boy while he was filling his lamps.” His brother, recently married and expecting his first child in Paris, stayed away.

Bailey said: “I now appreciate quite what a terrifying environment it must have been for Van Gogh.

“That makes it even more astonishing that he was able to create some of his finest and [most] optimistic paintings in such a situation. I am also convinced that it was his art which enabled him to survive.”

It had been suggested that Van Gogh might have been sent to an asylum in Marseille that had more than 1,000 patients, which Bailey believes would have destroyed the artist.

The Saint-Paul asylum, which remains part of a psychiatric hospital, was once a monastery. As an asylum, it originally held more patients, initially offered first, second and third-class accommodation at different prices. By Van Gogh’s arrival, the male wing was almost empty, so each man had plenty of space.

Conditions were improving under a new director from an earlier stage, when an unpublished official report condemned neglect, terrible food, and elderly, incontinent patients lying on straw mattresses described as reduced to manure. Life there by Van Gogh’s time was boring, but not brutal.

Van Gogh was released on 16 May 1890, at his own request, despite evidence of mental collapse following his previous brief breaks from the asylum. He yearned for new spring landscapes to paint, blamed the company of his fellow patients for his previous and longest collapse, and wrote “the prison was crushing me”.

The final medical note described Van Gogh as “cured”. He travelled to northern France to begin again, but after a final burst of creativity, he died within two months – 36 hours after shooting himself in the stomach while out painting in the midsummer fields.

“There have been suggestions that his death was an accident or even manslaughter, but that’s nonsense,” Bailey said.

“The evidence of his mental state in the previous year makes it incontrovertible that he took his own life, but it was thanks to the asylum, his strength of will and his art that he survived that year in which he was able to create so much.”

Starry Night, Van Gogh at the Asylum, written by Martin Bailey, is published by White Lion Publishing

To visit Van Gogh's sanatorium on our Provence Roman Heritage Tour, click here!

The Dutch Reach - don't laugh, it could save a life!

Wed, 31 Oct 2018 00:00:00 +0000

No, it's not a euphemism, but the name of a simple manoeuvre that, if widely adopted by motorists, as charity Cycling UK believes it should be, could save lives and help elevate the safety of cities worldwide to that of those of oft-revered cities such as Amsterdam or Copenhagen.

Originating some 50 years ago in (no prizes for guessing where) the Netherlands, the Dutch Reach is a method of opening a car door with the hand furthest from the handle, so in the UK, the left hand of the driver, or right hand of the passenger. This means motorists are forced to turn their body towards the door, allowing them the opportunity to look over their shoulder to see whether a cyclist - or motorcyclist - is coming.

In the Netherlands it is taught to children both in school and from their parents, as well as being a required section of the driving test. The method has become a central pillar to groups campaigning to put an end to “dooring”, the rather literal name that describes when a cyclist is knocked off their bike by an opening car door.

“Dooring” was responsible for 474 accidents across the UK in 2015, according to the Department of Transport (DfT), and also made the news earlier this year thanks to a careless Chris Grayling, the transport secretary, who sent a 35-year-old cyclist flying when he exited his ministerial car without looking.

Hitting someone with a car door may sound trivial, but has been involved in the deaths of dozens of cyclists around the world (as of 2013, 25 killed, according to Bicyclesafe.com), including Sam Boulton, a Leicester teacher knocked into the path of van on his 26th birthday last year. Further analysis of DfT data by Cycling UK reveals that between 2011 and 2015 there were 3,108 people injured, eight fatally, where "vehicle door opened or closed negligently" was a contributing factor in incidents attended by police.

How to do the Dutch Reach

An instructional video by Outside magazine has become one of the most popular blueprints for how to learn the method, with a YouTube video watched more than one million times.

In the simplest terms, the Dutch Reach is opening the car door using your 'far hand', allowing your body to pivot to look behind.
The Dutch Reach Project says: "Look out, at mirror and easily back for bikes and traffic. All clear? Then open slowly, remaining vigilant.

“We frequently cite our European neighbours as examples of what we would love to have here, in countries like Denmark or Holland, and it’s the little things like this that can make a difference,” explains Sam Jones, from Cycling UK, a cyclist charity.

“We know of families who have lost loved ones because someone has literally just opened a car door. It’s been a big issue for us for a long time.

“It’s safer not just for the cyclist, but motorcyclists, or someone jogging or walking with a pram.”

So, next time you park your car, think about the Dutch Reach - maybe put a sticker on your steering wheel or windshield! And tell your friends!

Recipe of the month - Cassoulet de Carcassonne

Wed, 31 Oct 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Visitors to the south-west of France will no doubt have had the opportunity to try the signature dish of the region - Cassoulet. A glorious stew of beans infused with a cornucopia of meaty goodness (vegetarians may as well stop reading now, sorry!) that is the perfect dish for the winter months - prepare the night before, stick it in the oven after breakfast and it will be ready to warm you up after a bracing winter's country walk!

There are various versions of Cassoulet - the 'right' way is hotly disputed between the towns of Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse - but even within those towns there are different ways of making and 'essential' ingredients. The Carcassonne version described here majors on toulouse sausage and confit duck, but others feature ham hock, goose and lamb!

You will need to start the night before, as unfortunately there is no substitute or quick way to soak the dried beans which are intrinsic to the recipe. I have used Raymond Blanc's recipe (the Michelin starred proprietor of the Manoir au Quat' Saisons restaurant at Great Milton near Oxford - if you are in the area and your pockets are deep enough, make sure to go, you won't regret it!) with a few modifications/liberties...

140g smoked streaky bacon
140g pork rind
300g toulouse sausage (or garlic sausage if you can't source toulouse)
600g dried haricot beans, soaked overnight in 3 times their volume of water
1 stick of celery
1 onion
6 garlic cloves
2 ripe plum tomatoes (or a good squirt of tomato puree)
1 large carrot
25g goose fat (or 2 tbsp olive oil)
1 bouquet garni
8 pinches of sea salt
2 pinches of freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp lemon juice
1 clove, lightly crushed

To finish:

4 confit duck legs
60g goose fat or 2 tbsp olive oil
40g dried breadcrumb
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
a handful of fresh flatleaf parsley, coarsely chopped

Method:

To cut the meats, roll up the pork rind like a Swiss roll. With the seam underneath, use a very sharp knife to cut the roll across into thin slices, then chop the rolled-up slices across into dice. Chop the bacon into small cubes Toulouse sausages can be left whole, bit if you are using a latge gatlic sausage, cut into 1 inch chunks.

Drain the soaked beans and discard the soaking water. Tip the beans into a large saucepan, add the diced pork rind and lardons and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to the boil and blanch for 15-20 minutes. Drain the beans, rind and lardons into a colander, and discard the cooking water.

Roughly chop the celery, onion and carrot. Peel the garlic cloves but leave them whole. Cut each tomato into eight wedges. (You never see tomatoes in a traditional cassoulet, but chef Raymond Blanc likes them for their colour and sweetness, so he puts a couple in.) Preheat the oven to 120C/fan 100C. (If cooking in a gas oven, use mark 2.)

Heat the goose fat or olive oil in a 26cm flameproof casserole or deep overproof sauté pan over a low heat and sweat the celery, onion, carrot and garlic for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bouquet garni and cook slowly to get a sugary caramelisation (about 5 minutes). Add the sausage, beans, pork rind and lardons and pour in 1.2 litres/2 pints water. Bring to the boil, skim off the scum, then add the salt, pepper, clove and lemon juice.

ransfer the casserole to the oven and cook, uncovered, for 2 hours, stirring every hour. At the end of this time, the beans will be soft and creamy in texture and the juices should have thickened. You may need to cook it for longer than 2 hours (say up to 2½ hours) to get to this stage – it depends on the beans.

Remove the cassoulet from the oven. Bury the duck legs in the beans and sprinkle over the goose fat or olive oil, breadcrumbs and garlic. Return to the oven and cook for a further 2 hours. Serve the cassoulet in bowls, sprinkled with chopped parsley.

New Tour! Mont Aigoual and the Cevennes

Tue, 27 Nov 2018 00:00:00 +0000

We are proud to announce a brand new tour for 2019! Set in the stunning Cévennes hills just north of the Mediterranean plain, the tour represents a bridge between our luxury leisure tours and our full on mountain tours, and is ideal for riders who have a few seasons' riding experience, and want to add a bit of a challenge to their cycling vacation. Whilst the riding is a bit more challenging than our leisure tours, the comfort levels are just as high, staying in 4* and 3* hotels in dramatic settings, with the highest standards of food and wine as you would expect from our leisure trips.

The medieval skyline of Uzès

The route starts in the wonderful town of Uzès, one of our favourite places on any of our tours, with it's restored pedestrianised medieval centre. Early arrivals get the chance to visit the magnificent Pont du Gard Roman aqueduct. The following days venture into ever wilder and remote countryside, with some of the most dramatic scenery in France - but don't worry, each day ends at a very comfortable and characterful hotel, with an elegant three or four course dinner awaiting!

Cirque de Navacelles

Some of the amazing sites you will see include Mont Aigoual, the highest point in the Cévennes, where the weather station often sits above the clouds; the Gorges of the River tarn, one of the most stunning cycling roads in Europe, and the Cirque du Navacelles, a dramatic crater cut into the limestone plateau by the meandering River Vis. An optional ride gives the chance to see, from below, Sir Richard Rogers' astonishing Viaduc de Millau, the motorway bridge spanning the Tarn Gorge at a height greater than the Eiffel Tower!

Viaduc de Millau

Hotels vary between a 15th Century Château, a medieval stagecoach inn, a 14th century fortified farmhouse and a converted distillery! Restaurants feature local specialities with a sophisticated twist, and take advantage of the game of the mountains, the lamb of the limestone plateau, seafood from the nearby Mediterranean - and many local cheeses, the most famous of which is Roquefort which comes from the limestone causses near Millau.

To see full details of the new tour, about which we are incredibly excited, click here.

The Frigate Hermione and the American Revolutionary War

Tue, 27 Nov 2018 00:00:00 +0000

A highlight of our Cognac Tour is a visit to the frigate Hermione moored in the port city of Rochefort. Hermione is famous as being the ship that carried General La Fayette to bring news to Washington that the French were willing to send much needed reinforcements, both troops and naval forces.

Hermione was built in eleven months at Rochefort, by the shipwright Henri Chevillard as a light frigate, fast and maneuverable. Between May and December 1779 she underwent successful sea trials in the Gulf of Gascony under the command of Lieutenant de Latouche.

General La Fayette embarked at Rochefort on 11 March 1780 and arrived in Boston on 28 April carrying the secret news that he had secured French reinforcements (5,500 men and five frigates) for George Washington. After the dramatic failure of the Penobscot Expedition, a large military expedition to dislodge the British from their new stronghold at the confluence of the Bagaduce and the Penobscot River on the east bank of Penobscot Bay in Maine (an area later known as Castine), the revolutionary council of Massachusetts asked Latouche if he would be willing to sail to Penobscot Bay for a quick military intelligence-gathering cruise, checking on the strength of the British garrison at Fort George. Hermione then made the week-long voyage in mid-May, after which the frigate sailed to Rhode Island. Next, she got underway again on 2 June and suffered serious damage in the fierce action of 7 June 1780 against the 32-gun HMS Iris, under James Hawker.

Hermione received the American Congress on board in May 1781. She fought several times in company with Astrée, commanded by Lapérouse, especially at the Naval battle of Louisbourg on 21 July 1781.

After the end of the American Revolutionary War, Hermione returned to France in February 1782. She ran aground and was wrecked after distinguished service in 1793.

In 1992 a project was conceived by members of the Centre International de la Mer ito build an accurate replica of l'Hermione. Construction began in 1997, envisaging a launch in April 2015 (as compared to the original, which took less than a year to build). The shipyard was in one of the two dry docks beside the Corderie Royale at Rochefort.

As far as possible, traditional construction methods were employed. English plans of a sister ship, Concorde, were used. The cost was estimated to be $22 million. The original plans had been modified in several ways for reasons of strength and safety: planks had been bolted rather than pegged to avoid movement during the long period of construction. Hemp rigging was used, and the sails made of linen.

After completion, Hermione completed a transatlantic crossing which was intended to signify the ties between France and the USA.

To see the full details of our Cognac tour which includes a visit to a prestigious Cognac distillery and a crossing on the Unesco listed transporter bridge across the Charente, and the wonderful historic port of La Rochelle, click here!

The frigate Hermione passing under the 18th Century Pont Transbordeur (which will carry us and our bikes later in the tour!)

Recipe of the month: Soupe à l'Oignon

Wed, 28 Nov 2018 00:00:00 +0000

...or onion soup! A French classic, which I tried the other week. It's easy, warming, and totally delicious!

Ingredients:

1 good knob butter
1 tsp sugar
olive oil
1 good handful fresh finely chopped sage leaves
6 cloves garlic , peeled and crushed
1kg of onions (white, red, shallots, whatever you have, mix them up!)
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1.5 litres beef, vegetable or chicken stock(beef or veal is the traditional stock in France) - the quality of the stock will go a long way to determine the quality of the soup!
250ml dry white wine
2 tbsp flour
8 slices toasted baguette, 2cm thick
200 g grated Gruyère cheese

Method:

Melt 50g butter with 1 tbsp olive oil in a large heavy-based pan. Add 1kg halved and thinly sliced onions and fry with the lid on for 10 mins until soft.
Sprinkle in 1 tsp sugar and cook for 20 mins more, stirring frequently, until caramelised. The onions should be really golden, full of flavour and soft when pinched between your fingers. Take care towards the end to ensure that they don’t burn.
Add the 6 thinly sliced garlic cloves and chopped sage leaves for the final few mins of the onions’ cooking time, then sprinkle in 2 tbsp plain flour (use a sieve) and stir well.
Increase the heat and keep stirring as you gradually add 250ml dry white wine, followed by the stock. Cover and simmer for 15-20 mi
To serve, turn on the grill, and toast 4-8 slices French bread. Ladle the soup into heatproof bowls.
Put a slice or two of toast on top of the bowls of soup, and pile on 140g finely grated gruyère cheese. Grill until melted. Alternatively, you can complete the toasts under the grill, then serve them on top.

Enjoy as a starter or on its own for a warming and hearty lunch!

Théâtre Antique d'Orange

Sat, 08 Dec 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Always one of the highlights on our Provence Roman Heritage Tour is our visit to the Roman Theatre in Orange. Built in the 1st Century AD, the Orange theatre is one of the best preserved of all the Roman theatres.

Playing a major role in the life of the citizens, who spent a large part of their free time there, the theatre was seen by the Roman authorities not only as a means of spreading Roman culture to the colonies, but also as a way of distracting them from all political activities.

Mime, pantomime, poetry readings and the "attelana" (a kind of farce rather like the commedia dell'arte) was the dominant form of entertainment, much of which lasted all day. For the common people, who were fond of spectacular effects, magnificent stage sets became very important, as was the use of stage machinery. The entertainment offered was open to all and free of charge.

As the Western Roman Empire declined during the 4th century, by which time Christianity had become the official religion, the theatre was closed by official edict in AD 391, since the Church, ever the killjoys, even then, opposed what it regarded as uncivilized spectacles. After that, the theatre was abandoned completely. It was probably pillaged by the Visigoths in 412, and like most Roman buildings was certainly stripped of its better stone over the centuries for reuse. It was used as a defensive post in the Middle Ages. During the 16th-century religious wars, it became a refuge for the townspeople.

The cultural authorities in France are always very pro-active in enhancing the visitor experience to their sites, and this year the curators of the Theatre have introduce a wonderful new 3D virtual reality tour showing the construction and development of the site by the Romans. A taster can be seen below.

The Orange theatre was created under the rule of Augustus, and is believed to be one of the first of its kind in this area of modern-day France. One of the most iconic parts of this structure is the grand exterior facade, which measures to be 103 meters long and 37 meters high. Originally, there was a wooden roof across the theatre to protect the audience from unfavorable weather conditions. There is evidence on the walls that shows that, at some point, the roof was destroyed in a fire. Although it is relatively sparse in decoration and embellishment, the three story wall gives an overwhelmingly powerful appearance to the entire building. The main three doors on the first level of the facade open directly onto the stage inside the theatre, which can seat from 5,800 up to 7,300 (today, much of the seating has been reconstructed to ensure the safety of tourists and audience members).

The stage, which is 61 meters long and raised about one meter from the ground, is backed by a 37 meter high wall whose height has been preserved completely. This wall is vital to the theatre, as it helped to project sound to the large audience. The wall, also known as the scaenae frons, is the only architecturally decorated surface throughout the entire theatre. It originally was embellished with marble mosaics of many different colours, multiple columns and friezes, and statues placed in niches. The central niche contains a 3.5 meter high statue of the emperor Augustus, although this was most likely a restoration of an original statue of Apollo, the god of music and the arts. The central door, below the niche containing this statue, is called the Royal Door, or valva regia. This door was used only by the most important, principal actors to enter and exit the stage. Above the door was a frieze decorated with centaurs, which is no longer there but is instead on display across the street in the Orange Museum (unfortunately only remains are left). The stage was covered with a modern platform when the theatre began to be used again for operas and other performances.

Recipe of the month - Pain de Poisson

Fri, 21 Dec 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Following a few comments that our recipes are always aimed at the Northern Hemisphere winters when Australia, New Zealand and South Africa are basking in summer heatwaves, we are going to redress the balance with a recipe for a fish terrine that can be served cold. Luckily, it also makes an ideal light starter for Christmas Lunch, while leaving plenty of room for Turkey and Christmas Pudding!. Can be made well in advance and easy-peasy!

Ingredients (serves 8)

450g (1lb) salmon fillet (if you want a smoky version, replace 100g with same of smoked salmon)

6 eggs

1 tin of tuna (dolphin friendly please!)

200g / 7oz crême fraîche

70g / 2^1/2 oz tomato concentrate

70g / 2^1/2 oz grated chees (gruyère ideal, emmenthal fine)

Salt, Pepper

Method

1: Poach the salmon in a little milk for 5 minutes. Allow to cool and remove the skin. Flake the flesh.

2: Beat the eggs well.

3: Preheat the oven to 210C, 400F

4: Put all the ingredients into a mixing bowl and mix well whilst leaving salmon flakes intact.

5: Butter a loaf tin and dust with flour, then tip in the mixture.

6: Cook for 20 to 25 minutes, checking as you would for a cake that a metal skewer inserted in the middle comes out clean.

7: Allow to cool. Slice and serve with a watercress garnish, a wedge of lemon to squeeze and maybe a dollop of aïoli - see our other recipe this month!

Bon appetit!

Recipe of the month 2 - home made Aïoli

Fri, 21 Dec 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Aïoli, a pungent garlic mayonnaise, is the classic Provençal accompaniment. Many local restaurants will have a dish called "Aïoli" and will make it a special on one day of the week, often Friday. "Aïoli" as a dish consists of a bowl of the aïoli itself with a piece of simple steamed fish (often haddock) and steamed carrots, potatoes, cauliflower and other vegetables. Simple, delicious and healthy!

Here's how you do it!

Ingredients:

3 egg yolks

4 large cloves of garlic

150ml/5fl oz extra virgin olive oil

The juice of half a lemon.

Salt and pepper.

Method.

1: Place all ingredients EXCEPT the olive oil into a blender. Blend until smooth.

2: Keep the blender running at a slow speed, then slowly pour the olive oil into the blender in a stream until it forms a thick wobbly sauce. That's it!

You can add a little saffron or mustard powder at stage 1 to vary the taste a little.

Serve as part of a traditional Aïoli or on the side of our Pain de Poissons recipe!

Another French Christmas Tradition - Père Fouettard, Santa's little helper!

Fri, 21 Dec 2018 00:00:00 +0000

Many countries have different takes on familiar Christmas traditions, and France is no different! While in the Anglosphere, it is Santa who decides who has been naughty and who has been nice, and gives and withholds presents as a reward or a punishment, but in France, Father Christmas has a more sinister companion to deal with the misbehaving children!

Père Fouettard is Saint Nick's companion who accompanies him as he travels round France giving out presents to the good children. Père Fouettard; which literally translates as 'Father Whipper' hands out lumps of coal, and according to tradition, a beating or whipping! Fouettard’s appearance is described to be an older man with a sinister face. He wears a dark robe, has an unkempt black beard, and carries a whip or a club. His face is also usually darkened with soot.

Legend states that Père Fouettard was a butcher (as in someone who sells meat!). During a particularly hard winter, three boys went searching for food and became lost. They found the home of the butcher and asked him for shelter for the night. The butcher agreed but then as soon as he had their trust, chopped the children into pieces! He planned to sell their meat in his butcher's shop. St. Nicholas then arrives, and miraculously brings the boys back to life. The butcher repents, and begs St Nick to allow him to atone for his crimes. So, he became Saint Nicholas’s companion, serving out of loyalty and gratitude.

So, we wish you all a Merry Christmas, and may your only visitor on the night of Christmas Eve be the big jolly guy, and not his lesser known companion!

Normandy Landings 75th Anniversary

Thu, 07 Mar 2019 00:00:00 +0000

On a typical wet and windy English summer 75 years ago, generals from the American, British, and Canadian armed forces were anxiously looking at weather forecasts. The planned seaborne invasion of Nazi held France was limited to a select few days where there would be a full moon for aircraft to see targets and high tides to get troops as high up the beaches as possible. The 5th June 1944 was selected as the ideal date, but on 4th of June high winds and heavy seas made it impossible to launch landing craft, and low clouds would prevent aircraft from finding their targets.

Just as commanders were on the point of postponing the invasion for another month, the Allied meteorological team predicted that the weather would improve sufficiently so that the liberation could begin on 6 June…

The 75th anniversary of the greatest military exploit that the world has ever seen will see huge celebrations across the Normandy region, with special exhibitions, installations and re-enactments along the stretch of coastline that includes the Utah, Omaha, Sword, Juno and Gold landing beaches.

The Normandy Tour

Our Normandy tour on 21st July visits many of the key locations, including the landing beaches, museums at Arromanches, St-Côme-du-Mont and Ste-Mère-Eglise, as well as the American cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer, above the Omaha beaches where the fiercest fighting took place. Omaha in particular is an incredibly moving testament to the bravery and sacrifice that so many young men gave to liberate the continent from Nazi tyranny.

Not just tanks!

The tour is not just about the war, taking in as it does the astonishing Mont St-Michel with its 12th Century Abbey , and the town of Bayeux with its legendary tapestry telling the story of the Norman Invasion of England in 1066. All of this is linked by quiet cycling roads through woods and forests, alongside beaches, and through pastures and orchards producing world renowned cheeses, butter, cider and calvados.

You can get more details of the tour here! As with all of our tours, the Normandy Tour features character 3- and 4* accommodation, and great restaurants specialising in local cuisine and produce, quiet cycling routes and our friendly, knowledgeable, attentive bilingual guides!

La Chanson Français

Wed, 13 Mar 2019 00:00:00 +0000

When one thinks of French culture, the mind immediately springs to artists like Monet, Cezanne and Gauguin, to composers like Debussy, Ravel and Saint-Saëns, the films of Truffaut and Godard, the writing of Baudelaire and Voltaire. French popular culture is often dismissed as a pastiche of Anglophone originals, especially in popular music, where the likes of Jonny Halliday is a French national hero, but few outside of France would see as anything but a pale imitation of Elvis Presley.

There is, however, a particularly French music form which is still hallowed in France and has influence all around the world: la chanson. Literally ‘french song’ in French, chanson français has a different very specific meaning. Chansons are lyrically driven, rather than by the beat, the meter takes account of the rhythms of the French spoken language. Chansons tell a story and the delivery is very important – it takes an accomplished performer to deliver the song with the emotion and drama that it requires – the great artists are as much actors as singers.

The roots of the form lie in the medieval troubadours who would travel round Europe playing to the courts of Royals and Noblemen; with their limited instrumentation a catchy tune was less important than a good story. The chanson evolved into its current form around the turn of the twentieth century, and with the advent of recording facilities there is a rich archive of the artists of the twenties and thirties.

Edith Piaf is probably the best known of the chanteuses, especially since the release of the film starring Marion Cotillard in 2007. Indeed, many of the most recognisable chansons for Anglo audiences have come through their usage in films and advertisements. You may remember the scene in A Good Year starring Russell Crowe when the band plays Boum! by Charles Trenet as the heavens open on his romantic dinner (incidentally that romantic dinner takes place in the square in Gordes - you can have lunch there on our Provence Villages of the Luberon tour!)

Many songs were used as political and social commentary - Jacques Brel and Georges Brassens sang songs that were often darker and more politically pointed. The way that chanson allows dense lyrical content without need for the repetition and catchy chorus often found in American and British popular music, means that social and political themes can be developed in greater detail than mere sloganeering. Below is Georges Brassens singing Supplique pour être enterré à la plage de Sète, or "Plea to be buried on the beach at Sète". Sète is the starting point of our Mediterranean tour and Brassens is buried, not in the sea , but in the sailor's cemetery at the top of the hill, looking out over the Mediterranean. The Brassens museum there is a great tribute to a local icon.

The chanson is still adored in France even though it can sound old-fashioned to the uninitiated. This is maybe because apart from Halliday, the French never had real pop and rock icons like the Beatles and Rolling Stones, but mainly because it is a living part of French heritage, of which they are fiercely protective. Although the French language might be a barrier to entry into the world of the Chanson, luckily some western writers have taken the tunes and rejigged the lyrics so these final tunes, by Claude François and Charles Trenet might be very familiar to fans of Frank Sinatra and Bobby Darin...

Recipe of the month: Paté de Pâques

Wed, 13 Mar 2019 00:00:00 +0000

This recipe originates in the tradition, in certain parts of France, that eggs were forbidden during Lent. So, as the hens, being heathen, didn't know to stop laying, to avoid wasting the eggs they were hard boiled and set aside to be used in this Easter dish. It is similar to the British Gala Pie, but I haven't been able to find out if the Brit version has similar religious origins!

If you don't want to make your own pastry, ready rolled shortcrust is fine!

Ingredients:

50 gr of flour

75 gr of butter

50 ml of water

100 gr of onions

4 sprigs of flat parsley

150 gr of smoked serrano/parma ham

700 gr of minced pork

1 egg

30 ml of cognac (or decent brandy)

1 teaspoon ground pepper

15 grams of salt

5 hard boiled eggs

Method

Preheat oven to 160^o

Put the flour, butter, water, a pinch of salt and in a mixing bowl and work into a stiff dough. Turn out onto a floured board and cover with clingfilm/saran wrap. Leave to chill in fridge.

Roughly chop onions and parsley in a food processor. Set aside. Roughly chop the smoked ham in food processor. Set aside.

Put pork, ham, onions/parsley, and egg, cognac, salt and pepper in a bowl and mix thoroughly.

Roll out the pastry in a rectangle (or take ready rolled pastry out of refrigerator!).

Butter a 24cm loaf tin and line with pastry.

Fill 1/3 of the depth of the tin with the pork mixture. Place the hardboiled eggs in a line along the length of the tin, pressing into the mix.

Cover the eggs with the rest of the pork mix.

Use the remainder of the pastry to cover the pork, crimping the edges to seal the pie. Use any remaining pastry for Easter themed decoration! Brush the pastry with beaten egg.

Bake at 160^o for 90 minutes.

Allow to cool, then cut into slices. Serve with pickles and salad as a starter or a light meal.

Tour de France 2019

Sat, 11 May 2019 00:00:00 +0000

New Tour - Mont Aigoual and the Cevennes

Thu, 31 Oct 2019 00:00:00 +0000

2019 saw the inaugural running of the spectacular Cevennes Tour. We have pitched this ride somewhere between our leisure cycling trips and our full-on alpine tours in terms of cycling effort - so it is ideal for enthusiastic riders wanting a serious challenge while taking advantage of the luxury hotels and sophisticated cuisine of our leisure tours.

One of the riders on the first running of the Cevennes tour, a veteran of several French Cycling trips described it as 'the most beautiful cycling scenery he'd ever experienced'. From the lofty weather station on Mont Aigoual, to the stunning gorges of the River Tarn, to the breathtaking Cirque de Navacelles, this remote part of France is captured at its most captivating.

Starting in the bustling Roman town of Uzès, the tour heads into the wilds of the Cevennes hills, with roads winding up to the summit of Mont Aigoual before descending into the pretty market town of Meyrueis. A loop day following the magnificent gorges of the River Tarn is followed by the challenge of the Navacelles valley, where the River Vis has cut a 300m deep gorge and formed an oxbow resulting in a vast natural amphitheatre. The tour finishes with an easy into Alès, which is a short jump back to Uzes or Nimes should you wish to stay a few days longer to explore.The tour has something of everything!

As an added bonus for 2020, the Tour de France is tackling Mont Aigoual on 2nd July. So if you want to ride the same roads 2 days earlier, with the fans already camping out by the side of the road, join our tour departing 28th June!

Turn your Christmas leftovers into a French feast!

Thu, 19 Dec 2019 00:00:00 +0000

If you are fed up with living on turkey sandwiches between 26th December and New Year, we had a word with the restaurant staff at the Château d'Yeuse in Cognac and they passed on this fabulous recipe. You will see it makes use of that town's most famous product, so hopefully you'll have a drop left after flaming your Christmas Pudding! The Tourte is quite unusual in that it uses shortcrust pastry for the base and puff pastry for the top, but it works!

Turkey Forestière Tourte

Ingredients:

400g turkey meat

400g button mushrooms

2 shallots and 1 onion (or 2 onions)

1 tablespoon cognac

1 egg yolk

Parsley

40g butter

150g block of fois gras (optional) or

150g cream cheese

Salt and pepper

1 pack ready-made shortcrust pastry

1 pack ready-made puff pasty

1: Clean and quarter the mushrooms, then melt half the butter and sauté the mushrooms over a high heat until they have taken on colour and lost their moisture. Set aside in a bowl.

2: Chop the parsley (a handful), finely chop the onions (and shallots if used ) and cut the turkey into chunks. Melt the rest of the butter into the mushroom pan, and saute the turkey over a high heat until browned. Turn down the heat and add the onions/shallots and let them soften and go translucent. Turn up the heat, add the brandy and flame (light if it doesn’t ignite spontaneously)

3: Turn down heat, add the mushrooms and parsley, salt and pepper, then mix and then set aside to cool down. Once cool, put in fridge for 1 hour to chill (very important if you want your puff pastry to rise!)

4: Preheat oven to 180o. Line a pie dish with greaseproof paper, then cut a disk of shortcrust pastry to fit the base and come up the sides. Spoon on the turkey mushroom mixture leaving a 1.5cm gap round the edge.

5: Dot the top of the mix with either slices of fois gras or teaspoons of cream cheese. Cut a disk of puff pastry slightly bigger than the base, and place over the mix. Pinch the edgesof the puff and shortcrust pastry together to seal the pie.

6: Brush the top with egg yolk and bake in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes until golden brown.

Serve hot with green salad or, like we did last year, leftover sprouts and pickled red cabbage!

New Hotel Showcase - Château du Puits es Pratx

Thu, 19 Dec 2019 00:00:00 +0000

As part of our ongoing quest to improve the French Cycling Holidays experience, we are always on the lookout for quiet roads, visits, restaurants and hotels that will enhance our tours. We came across the Château du Puits while we were finding quieter roads from Béziers on our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi Tour. The Château had not been operating as a hotel for long, and had therefore been going under our radar, but a visit told us that it was just what we were looking for! The château had been bought by Londoners Tim and Sasha looking for a new life in the sun.

Coincidentally the day after we made our first reservations, the hotel made the first of many features on the UK television programme "Escape to the Château" which chronicles the work of people who have similarly made the leap to start a new business to realise their dreams. Below is a compilation of the hotel's appearances!

The beautiful 19th C Hotel was originally a winemaker's domaine, and still has extensive cellars. The restaurant "L'Es Pratx" is a destination for residents of surrounding villages as well as hotel guests. There is a swimming pool which can be covered in the event of cooler weather, and a spa for treatments and massages. After a successful collaboration in 2019, we hope for a long partnership!

Carrières de Lumières 2020 - Dali and Gaudi

Mon, 27 Jan 2020 00:00:00 +0000

On our Provence Roman Heritage tour, one of the most talked-about visits is the old bauxite quarry at the hilltop village of Les Baux. Now known as the Carrières de Lumières, it is host to a stunning sound and light display which changes its theme each year, picking a different artist and their works. Previous displays have involved Gaugin, Van Gogh and Bosch amongst many others - 2020's exhibition promises to be one of the most spectacular, with Salvador Dali's surreal landscapes adorning the massive blocks of hewn stone in the underground quarry. For an idea of the visit, the video below (of 2014's Picasso event) gives a flavour, though in truth the scale of the spectacle needs to bee seen first hand to be appreciated!

The idea of Dali's melting watches from "Persistence of Memory" sliding down giant slabs of limestone is quite intriguing! In addition to the Dali exhibit, their will also be a display celebrating the work of the architect Antoni Gaudi, most famous for the Sagrada Familia cathedral on Barcelona. Gaudi helped change the face of modern architecture, and the exhibition will bring his imagination vividly to life.

Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes

Thu, 30 Jan 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Our new tour, Mont Aigoual and the Cevennes, follows in the donkey tracks of Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Treasure Island, Kidnapped, and Doctor Jekyll and Mr Hyde. In 1878, the young Stevenson set out on what was then a very adventurous tourist journey through the wild landscapes of the Cévenne mountains in Southern France with his donkey, Modestine, with whom he had a love-hate relationship; his account of the journey, published in 1879, is considered a pioneering work in the field of outdoor literature. Our bike tour, whilst not quite so adventurous, cover the same wild and beautiful region, and in reading the book you realise that the landscapes and villages have changed very little since Stevenson's adventure.

Below is he closing chapter of the book which gives a flavour of both the book and the countryside. If you would like to read the whole book, it is available to read on-line at http://www.gutenberg.org/files/535/535-h/535-h.htm

Featured Tour - Provence Villages of The Luberon

Fri, 31 Jan 2020 00:00:00 +0000

This month we are looking at one of our most popular tours, the Villages of The Luberon. It's one of our oldest tours, and we've refined it over the years so now it is, dare we say it, the perfect introduction to this dramatic region.

The Luberon is a massif in central Provence, sitting between the Mediterranean plain and the foothills of the Alps. It has a remarkable quality of light which attracted artists like Van Gogh and Cezanne, and richly colourful landscapes of lavender, sunflowers, vines and ochre rocks. Set amongst all this fabulous scenery are the villages! Peter Mayle discovered the charms of the area when he settled here and it inspired him to write A Year in Provence which became an international best seller. Menerbes, where Mayle made his home, is one of the beautiful villages we visit, perched on a hill with wonderful views all around.

Another perched village, Gordes, is a jewel of the Luberon- you may recognise it from the Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard movie A Good Year. We also ride through Lacoste, home of the Marquis de Sade, and Lormarin, where Albert Camus lived and was is buried in the local cemetery. Bedoin is a great cycling centre, basecamp for the celebrated 'Giant of Provence', Mont Ventoux (of which more below).

While riding the quiet roads of the Luberon, you will often be pedalling through vineyards. The local grapes are Syrah (Shiraz) and Grenache, and they make a great hearty, fruity red that is as good for quaffing with cheese as it is accompanying a meal. You will also see plenty of goats, and goats cheese often appears on restaurant menus - along with fish from the nearby Mediterranean, local game like rabbit and wild boar, truffles from the scrub oak forests, and of course, the signature dish of Provence, ratatouille, made with local peppers, courgettes, aubergines and tomatoes, and plenty of golden olive oil from the region's oil mills.

Our ride takes us through the best of this gorgeous landscape, culminating for those who want to, to tackle Mont Ventoux itself. For those who want an easier route, you're not missing out because the alternate route takes in the breathtakingly spectacular Gorges of the River Nesque. Both groups meet up for lunch in Bedoin! The terrain is quite hilly, but easily achievable for regular cyclists - if you have any doubts e-bikes are also available for the ride, which is a fantastic option if you are couple/group of mixed ability.

As the Luberon is a featured tour, we are running a promotion during the months of February and March - contact us by e-mail at fch@frenchcycling.com or phone on +44 1923 894305 to discuss what special offers we can tempt you with!

Lascaux - new exhibition

Fri, 28 Feb 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Always a highlight on our Dordogne tour, the visit to the caves at Lascaux have been enhanced in recent years by the building of an impressive new visitor centre. Lascaux is one of the world's most significant discoveries of neolithic cave art, with nearly 6,000 figures dating from the early Magdalenian period, 17,000 years ago. This year, a new exhibition called 'Continuum' has been created by installation artist Caroline Desnoëttes and explores the symbiosis between neolithic man, flaura and fauna and its evolution through prehistoric times.

The Discovery

On 12 September 1940, the entrance to the Lascaux Cave was discovered by 18-year-old Marcel Ravidat when his dog, Robot, fell in a hole. Ravidat returned to the scene with three friends, Jacques Marsal, Georges Agnel, and Simon Coencas. They entered the cave through a 15 metres (49 ft) deep shaft that they believed might be a legendary secret passage to the nearby Lascaux Manor. The teenagers discovered that the cave walls were covered with depictions of animals. Galleries that suggest continuity, context or simply represent a cavern were given names. Those include the Hall of the Bulls, the Passageway, the Shaft, the Nave, the Apse, and the Chamber of Felines. They returned along with Abbott Henri Breuil on 21 September 1940; Breuil would make many sketches of the cave, some of which are used as study material today due to the extreme degradation of many of the paintings.

The cave complex was opened to the public on 14 July 1948, and initial archaeological investigations began a year later, focusing on the Shaft. By 1955, carbon dioxide, heat, humidity, and other contaminants produced by 1,200 visitors per day had visibly damaged the paintings. As air condition deteriorated, fungi and lichen increasingly infested the walls. Consequently, the cave was closed to the public in 1963, the paintings were restored to their original state, and a monitoring system on a daily basis was introduced.

The First Replica

Lascaux II, an exact copy of the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery was displayed at the Grand Palais in Paris, before being displayed from 1983 in the cave's vicinity (about 200 m away from the original cave), a compromise and attempt to present an impression of the paintings' scale and composition for the public without harming the originals. The replica was built to exacting specifications, with dimensions and contours accurate to within millimetres, and using the same type of materials as iron oxide, charcoal and ochre, and using neolithic techniques which were believed to be used 19 thousand years ago.

The New Replica

Opened in 2016, the new Lascaux visitor centre was built to recreate the whole of the original cave in breathtaking detail (Lascaux II only covered a fraction of the original), and to provide a new high-tech visitor experience with interactive exhibits. The centre is a highlight on the arrival day of our Dordogne Caves and Castles tour. We are sold out for 2020, but subscribers to our newsletter will get news of 2021 dates as soon as they are released. We can also organise a private tour for groups of 6 and up in 2020 - contact us for details.

Is a French Cycling Holiday for you? Of course it is!!!!

Mon, 09 Mar 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Have you ever wanted to visit an area of France but the thought of trying to navigate in a different country has put you off? Take a coach/bus tour, but then not being able to stop and take pictures when you want…?

If you answered yes, then that is why a FCH guided cycling trip is so much better and so fun!!

Someone suggests a cycling holiday and two images may come to mind. You on a bike, baguette in your basket, maybe some cheese and wine…ah lovely…..or do you picture those tortured soles with large bags attached to their back wheels barely being able to stay upright?

On our tours, your first image is better..we take care of transporting your luggage and we provide the baguette, wine and cheese plus so much more.

Let us put your first question aside - can you do it? YES you can do it!! Everyone who has ridden a bike before can participate in a FCH tour as we have different levels of tours to suit all rider types. We also have van support for anyone who feels like they have had enough for the day and just want a break!

We use lightweight TREK hybrid bikes that are comfortable when riding on roads, bike paths, trails etc. Our guides keep them highly maintained and ride them with you!

Trek Hybrid Fleet

Even if you have a partner/spouse /friend who wants to holiday with you but is worried about the cycling, have no fear. You can add the option of an e-bike rental. With the evolution of e-bikes everyone can enjoy the fresh air and still feel like they have worked to earn their 3 course dinner and glass of wine at the end of the day. Plus you get to enjoy the scenery all around you without worrying about trying to keep up with your travelling companion!

Not sure about an e-bike or what it is? You hear people say it is cheating…that is only because they have not tried one!

An e-bike open doors for more and more people to either continue there passion to cycle as they have aged or suffered injuries or just make life simpler. On all our tours we have options for you to rent an e-bike. We know of people buying e-bikes for a greener way to commute to work, for local shopping trips , travelling around town but whatever the reason we love them

Enjoying the ease of an e-bike on our leisure tours

So E-bikes what does that actually mean? We at FCH get many questions…so the answer is NO - there is not a really long electrical cord that goes from the bike to the van while you ride along….

Do you still need to pedal? .....Yes! Like a regular bike if you stop pedalling the bike will eventually stop.

In simple terms there is a rechargeable battery attached to a small motor on the bike that provides assistance when you are pedalling when or if you want /need it.

If for example you are riding on flat terrain you would just ride the bike like normal - pedal pedal - if however you are tired or on rolling terrain , you turn on the electric assist ( usually a button on your handlebar) and the motor will provide electric power as you pedal. You still switch gears as the terrain changes just like a regular bike ( this helps the battery life).

The electric assist is a great feeling as it can make the cycling effortless when you want it to and flattens out those hills! Be aware you may have a string of riders behind you drafting to make their own hill climbing easier!

A road e-bike by GIANT for our sport tours

So there you have it, join us with or without an e-bike as we explore France together. For full details about all our tours and what’s included click here......and when you see that wine is included yes that is correct wine is included!

Wash your hands and keep safe!

Fri, 13 Mar 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Customers,

As you are aware, the Covid-19 pandemic is impacting hugely on world travel and restriction of activities within specific countries. At the moment France is relatively open; however this is a fast moving situation and we are, as you would expect, monitoring the situation closely.

To date we are planning to run all scheduled tours. If circumstances change, we will aim to reschedule all affected tours until either later in 2020 or to equivalent dates in 2021. We will not be asking for balance payments on any tours until the situation is much clearer. We will be advising weekly on the current situation.

In the meantime, keep cycling and keep yourselves and your loved ones safe. The French Cycling Team.

French / Cycling Quiz No 1!

Thu, 19 Mar 2020 00:00:00 +0000

While the world is on hold, we thought we'd devise a way to idle away a few minutes of each day with a France and Bicycle related quiz!

Scroll down for the answers; let us know how you score!

Two sisters called Stéphanie and Caroline created which dish by accident in 1898?
Richard the Lionheart died from gangrene poisoning after being shot by a crossbow during the siege of which castle?
Which 5 time Tour de France winner was known as Le Blaireau (The Badger)
Which grape is used for the production of the world’s most expensive wine, Romanée-Conti DRC?
What is this world heritage structure?
Which French region gave its name to a type of luxury automobile?
The Paris-Roubaix cycle race (AKA The Hell of the North) does not start in Paris any more. In which town does it start?
Bishop Odo commissioned which famous documentary work?
The painting La Nuit Etoilée inspire which Don Maclean hit?
Catherine de Medici forced Diane de Poitiers to exchange which picturesque Loire château for the much less beautiful Château de Chaumont?

Answers:

Tarte Tatin. The Tatin sisters were village bakers in the Loire valley, when according to legend, Stéphanie accidentally put an apple tart in the oven upside down. Contact with the hot oven surface resulted in the caramelisation of the fruit and sugar. resulting in the yummy desert that is on so many menus today! Click here for our Loire Valley Tour
Chalus. After the château was finally taken, Richard summoned the archer who had shot him to his death bed and pardoned him. Unfortunately for the archer, Richard's knights were less forgiving, and after Richard's death the archer was flayed alive then pulled to pieces by horses.
Bernard Hinault. He was known as the Badger as in French folklore, when a badger bites you it will never let go, and it's jaws have to be pried apart. Click here for our Legendaires Tour
Pinot Noir. Romanée-Conti is produced from a single tiny plot in Burgundy just north of Nuits-St-Georges; it can fetch £2,000 for a single bottle. Click here for our Burgundy Tour
The Pont du Gard. This Roman Aqueduct was built around 3AD and is an extraordinary feat of engineering- the drop of 7mm for every 100m of span would be impressive today, never mind 2,000 years ago! Click here for our Cevennes Tour, here for our Provence Roman Heritage Tour and here for our Languedoc - All tours visit this remarkable site,
Limousin. The shepherds in the region wore a distinctive hooded cape to protect them from the elements under the stars. Early cars usually had a driver who sat in the open whilst the affluent passengers sat in the enclosed rear compartment. Somebody observed that this compartment resembled the shepherds' cloaks, and the name stuck!
Compiegne. The race originally started in Paris, but logistics and a need to reduce the gruelling length (even now it is 260km) enforced a move. It is called the Hell of the North because much of it is raced over cobbled farm tracks which are often muddy and slippery. Injuries are not uncommon! Click here to join a sports tour
The Bayeux Tapestry. Bishop Odo was half-brother to William the Conqueror. And of course, it is not a tapestry at all but rather an embroidery! Click here for our Normandy Tour
Starry Night. Don Maclean's hit is an ode to Vinvent Van Gogh, who painted the work whilst staying at the mental health sanatorium at St-Rémy-de-Provence. Click here for our Provence Roman Heritage Tour
Chenonceaux. Diane was a favourite of the French king Henry II, a fact not unnoticed by Catherine, his wife! After Henry's fatal wounding in a jousting tournament, Catherine took control. Click here for our Loire Valley Tour

Cycling / France Quiz #2!

Fri, 20 Mar 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Another quiz to while away a few minutes! Thinking caps on, answers at bottom of page!

Which drink was created by the Mayor of Dijon to use up the local surplus production of blackcurrants?
Who composed this skeletal work?
Which team, led by the French ‘housewives favourite’ Richard Virenque, and sponsored by a Swiss watch manufacturer, were at the heart of the 1998 Tour de France drug scandal?
Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc) was known as the ‘Maid of…’ where?
What tragic event occurred in 1944 in the village of Oradour-sur-Glane near Limoges?
Which impressionist painted ‘A Bar at The Folies Bergère’ ?
Which American bike manufacturer made the Stingray model with ‘apehanger’ handlebars and ‘banana’ seat?
What does ‘CV’ stand for in relation to the iconic Citroen 2CV car?
Which sheep’s milk cheese must be made in the Combalau limestone caves in southwest France and using only milk from the local Lacaune sheep breed?
Which renaissance man spent his last years under the patronage of King Francois I of France at the Manor Clos Lucé in Amboise?

Answers:

Kir. The classic aperitif of white wine and blackcurrant liqueur, was invented by Canon Félix Kir, who was a hero in the French Resistance during the Second World War, and also the Mayor of the Burgundian town Dijon from 1945 to 1968. For a Kir Royale swap still wine for sparkling (Crémant de Bourgogne is great, champagne is a waste!)
Camille Saint-Saëns. This piece is 'Fossils' from the Carnival of the Animals suite, and is one of the few classical pieces where the xylophone takes centre stage!
Festina. The fall out of the affair, when the riders refused to race because of increased testing after drugs were found on the team coach, ended with Virenque being banned for 9 months. The resulting changes to testing failed to stop Lance Armstron from winning 7 subsequent Tours de France... Yellow Fever by Jeremy Whittle and End of the Road by William Fotheringham are great accounts of the saga.
Orléans. The young Joan had a vision from the Archangel Michael telling her to recover France from English control and reinstate Charles VII as its rightful king, a mission she should fulfill with divine purpose. Odd thing for an angel to be bothered about but there you go. Saint Joan was burnt at the stake in Rouen in 1431.
A massacre. The whole village was rounded up by the SS in response to the alleged kidnapping of an German officer. The men were marched off and shot. Women and children were herded into the village church which was set on fire. 642 died. The village has been preserved exactly as it was on the day the massacre took place. Visiting it is a very moving experience.
Edouard Manet. Painted in 1892, it is one of the great Impressionist works - the painting is unusual in that half of the painting is taken up with the mirror behind the subject.
Schwinn. Created to mimic the 'chopper' motorcycles immortalised in the film Easy Rider, European cyclists will be more familiar with the Raleigh Chopper equivalent!
Chevaux. Which is the French word for 'horses'. Although it had a bit more power than 2HP, with the original 450cc aircooled twin cylinder engine it wasn't a lot more!
Roquefort. The tangy blue cheese was supposedly invented by accident after a shepherd left his lunch in one of the caves. When he went back a few weeks later, bacteria in the cave had worked their magic...
Leonardo da Vinci. The Manoir de Clos Lucé is a museum to Da Vinci, and the gardens contain life size recreations of his theoretical inventions, like the tank, helicopter and parachute.

Covid 19 Update

Sat, 21 Mar 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Customers

As you are aware world travel and restriction of activities within specific countries is still ongoing. Whereas last week when we wrote to you France was still open, they are now in a restrictive state until at least March 31. We are in contact with our hotels, many who have been required to close and we are all just trying to wait this out.

It is too early yet to determine if we will all be able to travel and thus our position remains as is. We will continue to plan for our tours, but will not ask for any payments until the situation is clear. In the meantime, please follow us through Facebook or Instagram to keep the team of cycling alive and your loved ones safe.The French Cycling Team.

France / Cycling Quiz # 3

Mon, 23 Mar 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Going nuts? Another little quiz on all things cycling and France to while away a few minutes (and maybe increase your store of useless trivia!) Scroll to the bottom of the page for answers, let us know how you do!

Which queen, mother of King John and King Richard I of England, is buried at Fontevraud Abbey in the Loire Valley?
This is a rear derailleur. What function do the screws arrowed perform?
What are the grape varieties used at Chateau Mouton-Rothschild?
What is the almost unpronounceable name of the cycle sprinter nicknamed the Tashkent Terror? He fought for the Tour de France sprinters jersey throughout the late eighties and early nineties.
Château Cheverny in the Loire valley was the inspiration for Château Moulsinart, residence of Capitaine Archibald Haddock, in which comic strip story series?
Singer Charles Trenet, born in Arles, Provence, wrote and sang La Mer, which was the original version of which Bobby Darin hit?
Where was 4-time Tour de France winner Chris Froome born?
Which French region was French in 1870, German in 1872, French again in 1919?
Which fauvist artist painted this work?
Which architect designed the Viaduct de Millau bridging the Tarn Valley in the Cevennes, the tallest bridge in the world?

Eleanor of Aquitaine. She is buried with her husband, Henry II, and their two sons, side by side in sarcophagi bearing their images.
Limit screws. They limit the movement of the derailleur (and thus the chain) at the innermost and outermost edges of the sprockets. If your chain keeps coming off, this is a good place to start!
Cabernet Sauvignon (approx 80%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (4%) and Petit Verdot (1%). These are the classic Bordeaux red grapes - get a point if you said Cabernet & Merlot!
Djomoladine Abdoujaparov. The Uzbekhistan rider was nicknamed "The Tashkent Terror" as he was so ferocious in the sprints. His unorthodox and often erratic sprinting caused a number of crashes.His great rival was Frenchman Laurent Jalabert.
The Adventures of Tintin by Hergé. Belgian Hergé took his pen name from the initials of his real name Georges Remi (French usually write their names surname, first name, so R "err" G "zhay".)
Beyond the Sea. The classic tune has been performed by Bobby Darin, George Benson, Frank Sinatra and Robbie Williams!
Nairobi Kenya. Although he rides as a British citizen!
Alsace. The region was annexed by Germany after the defeat of France in the Franco-Prussian War, then returned to France under the Treaty of Versailles at the end of World War 1.
Henri Matisse. The subject of this portrait is his wife Amélie The movement known as fauvism, which is characterised by strong colours and fierce brushwork, took its name from the French for 'wild animals' - the name was coined by a critic on viewing the works at a Paris exhibition.
Norman Foster. The astonishing construction, of which the tallest pier stands at 336m takes the A75 motorway at a height of 270m over the River Tarn.

Bored yet? Play Mikes Music Quiz

Fri, 03 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Are your zoom family parties already drying up? Do you need something to spice them up? Well look no further we have the answer.

As many of you will know our illustrious Leader Mike is an avid music fan and he has put together a "Beat the Intro Quiz".

beat the intro quiz

How do you play? Click on the above "beat the intro" music mp3 file and you will hear Mike say Track 1 and you will then hear the first few notes of a song - the intro.

You guess the artist and title. If no one guesses it you will have one more chance to hear it before he moves on to the next track.

There are 10 in total!

Have fun and Good Luck!

Scroll down for answers.....no cheating!

Answers:

1. Stuck in the Middle - Stealers Wheel

2. Happy - Pharrell WIlliams

3. Zombie - The Cranberries

4. Get Back - Beatles

5. Hey Ya - OutKast

6. Take on Me - A Ha

7. Shut up - Stormzy

8. I Wish - Stevie Wonder

9. Disco Inferno - The Trammps tick

10. Are you my Woman - Chi-lites

Corona Virus Update March 28

Fri, 03 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Customers

We hope you are all staying safe and have continued good health in this world we are all now living in.

While France was under a ‘lockdown” until March 31; as of yesterday the government has increased this period until April 15th.

The last two weeks has seen movement of all persons around the world still travelling to get to their respective homes. Hopefully, now that travel restrictions have been further increased people will be able to heed the advise by the World Health Organization to “Stay Home” .

We too wish you all to stay home….....for now.Our message remains the same. Tours listed on our website remain as is and if circumstances change, we will aim to reschedule all affected tours until either later in 2020 or to equivalent dates in 2021.

Stay safe everyone so we can all ride together again.

In the meantime, please follow us through Facebook or Instagram to keep the dream of cycling alive.

The French Cycling Team.

Corona Virus Update April 3

Fri, 03 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Customers,

We hope this email finds everyone healthy.

Countries are continuing to restrict movement of people and we expect that the date of April 15th in France will be extended; albeit in certain areas people may be able to have an extended solo excursion out of the home for exercise - our guides living in France eagerly await this!

Many of you have contacted us to advise of travel disruptions/cancellations to your existing holidays and we ask that you continue to do this in order to help us manage our hotel/restaurant partnerships.

If your airlines has advised you are unable to travel, please let us know. If you wish to rebook travel and do not see dates on our website that suit your travel needs, please also let us know.

Stay safe everyone so we can all ride together again.In the meantime, please follow us through Facebook or Instagram to keep the dream of cycling alive.

The French Cycling Team.

Easter Sing Along!

Fri, 10 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000

We had a great response from our "Beat the Intro Quiz" last week so to help with your stay at home Easter Activities we have " Beat the Intro" number 2! If there are budding musicians in your family they can play along with their own instruments too! Answers found after the music sheet ( FYI - if anyone wants to play the attached music sheet feel free! It was written by the grandfather of our guide David in 1946 - send us your recording!)

Beat the Intro 2

Answers:

1. Go your own way - Fleetwood Mac

2. I feel the earth move - Carole King

3. Young at Heart - Sinatra

4. Blue Monday - New Order

5. Sex on Fire - King of Leons

6 .Start me up - Stones

7. Little red corvette - Prince

8. Can't get you out of my head - Kylie Minogue

9. Money - Floyd

10. Brandy - Looking Glass You are a fine girl.

Tell us how you did - top score at the moment on the FCH teams is 7/10!

Covid 19 Update April 10

Fri, 10 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Customers,

We wish you all a safe long weekend and for those who celebrate Easter we wish you a Happy Easter! Normally this weekend many of us would be gathering as families but we know that this year that is not safe so please follow your countries advice. The sooner the world is better the sooner we can all ride together again!

Yesterday evening in France we were expecting an update by President Macron with respect to the deadline of our confinement initially scheduled to end of the 15th of April. The announcement however has been postponed and the President will now speak on Monday.

We are aware that the France Health Minister has recommend a further confinement and this is what the President will address Monday. We understand that perhaps in areas without new cases that some of the measures in place will be lifted but that is yet to be confirmed.

This week France added a new law for the tourism industry whereby hotels at this time are not obligated to refund us for cancellations due to Covid travel restrictions but instead offer a 18 month credit. As a result we in turn have amended our current refund policy.

As many of you are aware we have not asked for further payment on any of our tours where monies is currently due, we will continue in this vein. Our current terms reflect a non refundable deposit for anyone who cancels for any reason but we have chosen to mirror the industry in France and offer the same credit to those currently registered for a holiday with us this summer. We hope these terms will suit most of you, however should you prefer not to receive a credit we are happy to offer you a letter to claim against your travel insurance.

If there are any material changes on Monday we will advise you accordingly.

Happy pedalling whether you are inside or out from all of us at FCH.

Covid 19 Update April 24

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000

What has changed here? Our hair has gotten longer and our waistlines larger as we are still unable to ride our bikes and the 1 km loops around our homes can be quite boring!!

In all seriousness we hope everyone is adhering to their countries guidelines and staying safe.

We have had confirmation that our "confinement lockdown" will be eased May 11. A full plan of action of how the confinement will be lifted is to be publicized this coming Thursday after the government bodies meet Tuesday evening.

Last week saw the resurgence of our construction sector, building stores are now open for the general public as are garden centres. Doctors are able to see patients for non Covid 19 issues. The temporary medical facilites in the Alsace have been dismantled as the number of new cases and deaths has lessened to a state where the medical community is able to handle the patients without need of the temporary facilites. This is all good news.

In even better news, we understand that May 12th we will once again be allowed out on our bikes and other non essential businesses will be re opened on a gradual basis. Travel and tourism is still not been discussed at any length. It is still rumored but not confirmed that June2nd will be the date for hotel, restaurants and bars to reopen to the public. Our borders remain open to the EU and UK with restrictions on types of travel in place and again no real guidelines provided on when this will change. We know Macron is firm in his stance that he will not allow travel from/through countries where there is still a significant risk.

There has been a push by the public and representatives of the tourism industry for the government to set out some plan for reopening of the travel and tourism sector along with the rest of his plan. We look forward to hearing more on this subject Thursday and will share the news.

Again we trust you all are staying healthy and riding when you can. Thank you for all those sending us pictures - it is a pleasure to see them come in.

The FCH Team

Covid 19 Update April 17

Mon, 27 Apr 2020 00:00:00 +0000

As a follow up from last week, Monday evening the French President Macron as expected extended our lockdown period to May 11, 2020.

However, with this came discussion about how France would slowly start to reopen on that date.

A phased in approach starting with getting kids back to school and other industries starting to re open was met with optimism.

From a travel/tourism perspective, Macron has not lifted the restrictions for restaurants and the international borders for non europeans ( does not include the UK) to enter France for non essential travel remain closed at this time.

What does this mean?

At this time no one can be sure. We know two airlines in the UK have suggested flights for non essential travel will re open mid June. The EU commission has suggested travel within Europe will also be phased in which is good news for both our United Kingdom and European customers who still want to travel with us this year.

The bigger news which makes us think there is a glimmer of hope for our non European customers this fall, is the announcement that that the Tour de France will take place August 29, 2020. With this hotels, restaurants, bars would need to be open and travel restrictions lifted. All fingers are crossed!

Whilst we wait for bike life to return we will look at some new routes and hotels and be ready for when we can all ride together again. Until then please keep safe and contact us and let us know if you are still riding!

The FCH Team

Lily of the Valley for luck and yes we are getting better - Covid 19 Update May 1

Fri, 01 May 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Today, May 1st is a national holiday in France with a lovely tradition! We offer the "Muguet" Lily of the Valley to our friends and family to wish them good luck. The tradition dates back to the days of King Charles the IX where he was the recipient of a sprig of the Muguet on May 1st 1561.

Liking the idea, and with all things French the King saw the romance behind it and proceeded to present a bouquet of Lily's of the valley to each of the ladies of his court. And thus began the Fête du Muguet, or Fête du travail.

I offer one to all of you.

Covid 19 where are we at?

As of today we are unaware of when travel restrictions world wide will be eased. We wish we knew and could offer you more news. We know some of you have been offered flight vouchers, so please let us know if you are trying to rebook and do not see dates or tours you are looking for on our website. Hotels continue to maintain our reservations for late summer/fall and have provided credits for the earlier months.

What we do know? We are getting better.

On May 7th, each department in France will be given a colour - Green or Red. If you are green, deconfinement measures will start a few days later on May 11th.

Below is the map published yesterday of the current colours based on the areas where there is active cases of the virus. The orange that you see is areas where numbers are declining but there is no decision as of yet of what colour they will be May 7th. Each week from May 11th the regions' will be reviewed for changes.

This however is only one map - the final map will take into consideration a second criteria.

Has each regions health services adequately recovered enough capacity to deal with deconfinement? It is this criteria that is needed to be able to reopen our country completely and safely. Early indicators are that the north east may initially be red as they were the hardest hit.

What does green mean?

On May 11th, if we are green we will be able to ride our bikes in groups of 10 !!! Travel within100km of our homes and many services and businesses will reopen. We have had a few of our wineries advise they can also open for small tasting sessions and workshops which is great news for some of the smaller vineyards we support. We now just need you to all come with us!!!

Bars, restaurants and hotels will need to wait until the end of May for any news on reopening. The idea is to monitor the progress of the deconfinement to ensure the country is ready to proceed to the next step.

We continue to monitor the situation and sincerely hope we can ride together this year. Please stay safe!

The FCH team

Discover some of French Cycling Holidays favorite french cheeses - Les Fromages de France!

Fri, 08 May 2020 00:00:00 +0000

If you have ever been fortunate to indulge in a picnic on one of our tours you will know that local cheeses play a big part. In fact, cheese is available at your breakfast, lunch and if by dinner you still do not feel you have had enough of this yummy goodness then there is always the cheese option before dessert!

Quite often when cheese is a dinner option some of our guests INITIALLY say no, however minds are easily swayed when the cheese arrives.

The cheese course can be offered up on a plate; or via a chariot. Yes that’s right, the famous chariot de fromages! A cart filled with more french cheeses than one can imagine rolled to your table for you to select.

The cheese chariot at the Stéphane Derbord restaurant last dinner place of the Burgundy Tour

How do you even start to choose your cheese?

Thankfully your server will assist you. Generally the rule of thumb when serving french cheese is serve at minimum 3 different cheeses; a hard, soft and a strong/smelly; think blue or goat. One thing when serving french cheese is it should always be an ODD number; the french believe this is aesthetically pleasing and really who are we to argue!

A three variety selection

When the plate is served to you the cheese is placed in a specific manner. Your server will advise you what cheese is on your plate and the order in which to eat them.

Why is there an order to eating cheese?

In order to ensure your taste buds are able to appreciate all cheeses on your plate, you are to eat from mildest to the strongest..think Brie, goat cheese, roquefort. If you were to eat the strong one first…well you get it. Yes, we take our cheese seriously!!

Favorite french cheeses that the French Cycling Holiday guides enjoy!

In reality there are many many favorite cheeses we enjoy as we like nothing better than breaking off a piece of baguette, grabbing a chunk of cheese and washing it down with a lovely glass of wine but we thought we would start with some french cheeses that you may not be as familiar with.

On all our tours you will discover the local cheeses and other products the region is known for which brings us to our first cheese, Mike's favorite french cheese that comes from the Dordogne region.

Often people think of Dordogne and the famous Rocamadour goat cheese ( we ride by this wonderful smelly goat farm La Ferme la Borie d’Imbert on the Dordogne tour on our way to our hotel Thursday ) however, the Dordogne region offers many other cheeses. One of those is Trappe Échourgnac or more specifically Mikes favorite the Petit- Noix Trappe d' Échourgnac.

Sisters at the Abbey Échourgnac

Échourgnac is located between the start of our Bordeaux Wine tour in Libourne and our Dordogne Caves and Castle tour.

A cow’s cheese, the original and still made Trappe d'Échourgnac Nature (natural) dates back to 1868 where it was first produced by the monks at the Abbey of Échourgnac until 1910 when the monks left. Thirteen years later the Abbey was taken over by the Cistercian sisters and production started once again.

As you will learn on our Dordogne Caves and Castle tour, walnuts are another speciality of the region and in 1999 the Abbey of Échourgnac created the Trappe d'Échourgnac Petit Noix where the rind is washed in the ”Liqueur de Noix” Walnut liquor produced by the Distillerie du Perigord in Sarlat. We stay two nights in Sarlat and will have a chance to purchase these small bottles of liquor to take home as souvenirs.

The cheese has a very pale interior and a distinct walnut aroma but there is no taste of the actual alcohol just a lovely blend of walnut and mild creamy smooth dairy flavours. Thanks Mike!

Last year we launched a new tour Mont Aigoual and The Cevennes and what we love about exploring new areas in France is the new culinary delights this brings. Susan shares her story on her favorite cheese.

Having dinner one evening at L’Imprevu in Meyrueis ( a Tour de France Stage 6 stop for 2020) , the owner asked us if we would like to try a local cheese, and when he meant local he meant local! 15km away is a village Hyelzas with less than 50 inhabitants. Since 1970 the village has had a cheese dairy run by the Pratlong Family and it is this cheese dairy that brings life to this village. The Grandson of the Pratlong family had taken over this dairy and created the ‘Titounet”.

Titounet means "little lamb" in Occitan, the old Romance language spoken in the southern France. Therefore you have probably deduced this is a sheep cheese. The cheese made from raw sheep milk is matured for two weeks and is packaged in a traditional artisanal box. The cheese was served warm and you scoop out the creaminess with a spoon. The taste similar perhaps to a camembert but with a subtle sweetness but still enough tang! We ate it later in the week at a picnic ensuring it had come to room temperature and it was just as delicious. At this point to enjoy this cheese you will need to join us here in France!

Always a mountain man!

It was hard to get David to commit to just choosing one cheese and it would appear we need to dedicate an entire blog about cheeses from Burgundy ( Bourgogne) - they are amazing to be fair, however when pressed, as one who knows him may expect, he chose a mountain cheese.

Beaufort is a town in the region of Savoie and where the Beaufort cheese gets its name. It is a favorite place for cyclist in the area to ride to as it has a bustling little centre with enough cafes, boulangeries and restaurants to meet for your lunch or mid ride coffee shop. The Beaufort cheese tart is the hit amongst cyclist looking to refuel. We will see if Mike can whip one up for us and share his recipe!

Many of our guests who have ridden our Legendary Cols tour over the years will be familiar with this stop in Beaufort as on our tour it is the lunch stop when they ride the Cormet de Roseland and the more recent Lake Annecy tour introduced in 2018 as a coffee stop. Tour de France viewers will have seen Beaufort no less than 10 times featured in the tour with the most recently seen last year 2019.

There are 2 seasons for Beaufort cheese. Beaufort d’été ( summer) made from June 1 to October 30 and Beaufort d'hiver (winter) made from November 1 to May 31.

David’s preference is for the Beaufort d’été where the cows have roamed the grassy fields eating the Alpine herbs and wildflowers which gives the cheese a fruity taste. During the summer when riding in the Savoie region you often run into the farmers walking their cows down the streets bringing the cows to different pastures once they have effectively “mowed” the fields of the wild flowers where they were! Beaufort d’hiver on the other hand where the cows are sheltered in the winter and feast on the hay gathered during the summer which produces a sweeter taste.

There you have it 3 of our favorite french cheeses, we hope you can join us on a tour and try them! Book Now for 2021

Update on how France is recovering from COVID

Sat, 09 May 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Friends of French Cycling Holidays

Who knew on March 15th when the French President announced we were going to be in confinement for 15 days that officially 55 days later May 11th France is finally out of confinement ….well most of it.

In order for France to come out of confinement the government looked at three criteria - the circulation of the virus, the capacity of our health system and the ability to have testing across the country. If you look at the following maps you will see that we are winning against the virus and the government feels there is sufficient testing available across the country. The tension however on our hospitals in Paris and surrounding areas along with Ile de France; both densely populated areas are still stretched. To that extent those areas will continue to have restrictions in place.

We are in what is classified as Stage 1 of our deconfinement.

Most businesses outside of restaurants and hotels will reopen on Monday with safety measure in place where needed. Masks are to be worn on public transport, limit on numbers at tourist attractions museums etc. Generally until the end of May the message is be free but safe.

Stage 2 will commence June 2nd with the anticipation of our restaurants and hotels opening. Like many countries the economic impact on all sectors is enormous. Trying to strike a balance between reopening a country where the virus is still present around the world and re stimulating the economy is a difficult one.

We in the tourism business understand this well.

When the government tells you that freedom of travel and opening of hotels and restaurants is still in the future where does this leave us and all our partners? While we work with large hotel chains, mid size hotels we equally work with small family run accommodations and businesses who like us depend on you the traveller.

We do not know what this summer will bring. Will you be able to travel to France later this summer? in the fall? or more importantly will you want to travel to France or anywhere? We understand the anxiety, the uncertainty of the future as we feel it ourselves. Our guides have family in different countries that they would normally visit in their downtime but this year virtual calls and hugs will have to suffice.

Lives around the world have been unsettled as children and young adults have returned home from school and as adults we are in some cases balancing working from home, working form home and homeschooling, those retired used to having freedom to roam now with restrictions. Different countries have different rules and trying to keep abreast of where the world is at times is frankly tiring.

One thing we can tell you for certain is that IF we cannot see you this year, despite being a small company we WILL be here next year for you. Your deposits will be carried forward for a future trip and not just for next year but the year after as well. Tours that cannot run due to government restrictions will be rescheduled for you to rebook and as always call us if you cannot see what you are looking for. Anyone who would like an insurance letter to claim against their insurance will have one provided.

More than ever during these difficult times we need to ensure we have a presence when this is over. Big companies have big budgets for marketing , little companies rely on you the consumer to help us. If you have been on a trip with us in the past and have not left a review on our Facebook page and wish to do so please follow this link to our page and click on Reviews found on the left hand side of the page.

If you are not a Facebook user, please use google for your review. Type French Cycling Holidays into your google search in full and you will see the below. Our logo is on all our account and social media accounts to ensure you know it is us!

We want to thank you all for your continued support and ask that you continue to support us in the future.That said we now want to focus on happier things like.....Cheese!

Covid-19 Coronavirus Update May 29th What will summer bring?

Fri, 29 May 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Customers,

With much anticipation across France last evening the government detailed Phase 2 of our deconfinement process that will begin June 2nd.

As with every announcement we are still reminded that the virus while under control in France is still circulating which is why the below relaxing of restrictions comes with certain safety measures. As you are aware from earlier updates, the majority of France was in what was called a green zone – i.e. the circulation of the virus was low or non-existent and the areas have sufficient health resources available. North east France including Paris and the overseas departments were red. As of yesterday, the map now looks like this:

Paris as one would expect due to its populous area is now classified as orange along with two of the oversea departments but all in all, this is a welcome sight!

Quoi de neuf? What’s new?

Key points of the deconfinement are as follows:

From June 2nd

The existing domestic travel restriction of 100km within France will be removed and we are free to travel across France
Tourist attractions such as Museums and monuments are able to reopen albeit visitors will be required to wear masks
Tourist accommodation can reopen in green zones (with additional safety measures in place)
Restaurants, bars and those wonderful sidewalk cafes can reopen fully in green zones and terraces only for those located within an orange zone (with additional safety measures in place)
The remaining beaches and lakes can reopen.
Groups will remain limited to 10 in public spaces.

From June 15th

Border restrictions on non-essential travel within Europe is expected to be lifted (Still in discussion with EU partners, although we understand each EU country has agreed to this date)
*Voluntary Quarantine measures – are in place for those travelling from/through the UK or Spain. (France has stated they will put “voluntary” quarantine measures in place with any country that imposes a quarantine on the residents of France. To date this is the UK and Spain)
Travel from outside of Europe will remain restricted

*Voluntary Quarantine – you are asked to self-isolate for 14 days upon arriving at your destination in France but there are no controls in place to enforce this.

From June 22nd - Phase 3 begins

Expected date for further announcements on the reopening of borders to non-Europeans

July 24th

Expected date to end the State of Emergency

What does this mean for French Cycling Holiday tours this summer?

Sadly, whilst we had hoped …although some may say dreamed, we would be able to run tours with our UK and European customers with the current UK quarantine measures we feel that realistically this will not happen.

We would be unable as a company to put measures in place to confirm those arriving in France from the UK have followed government advice to self- quarantine and our European customer base is too small to create enough numbers to viably run the tours.

Customers scheduled up to August 23rd have indicated they cannot travel to us, therefore we will update our website to reflect the next scheduled tour dates to make it easier to book future tours with us.

We thank our optimistic customers ( and share that optimism!) still scheduled with us on our tours from August 23rd and will continue to monitor and update as required.

What can we offer?

Domestic travel is still an option so starting from June 15th and working with some of our partners we have created day trips and short stays for those in France looking for cycle support or a quick getaway. We will welcome bespoke request from those looking to put private groups together so if you have friends or family in France looking to explore a different area from where they live - please share the news! We will add these to our website.

Until next time, stay safe and get out on your bikes! (if you can!)

P.S. If you are into Strava, join our FCH Club so we can see where everyone is riding these days!

France Goes Green! Covid update June 22 as France enters Phase 3

Mon, 22 Jun 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Dear Customers,

We hope that you are all healthy and not missing us too much. We miss you! What a strange summer. All our hotels and restaurants that we use have been open for a while and their social media updates are making us envious that we are not with them (yet!) this year.

Today here in France we enter Phase 3 of our de confinement process albeit prior to today we reached milestones earlier than expected.

In advance of Phase 3

As the progress of health in France was better than the officials expected certain measures scheduled to be removed today were removed earlier. All of mainland France was declared a green zone on June 14th!

As a result on June 15th France re opened all their borders to travellers from the EU, the UK and the Schengen Zone. If you are travelling from the UK into France, you are asked to voluntarily self isolate (quarantine) for 14 days however the quarantine initially imposed by Spain for all EU and UK travellers was lifted yesterday June 21st.

The news last week of borders reopening brought joy to travellers across Europe ( including ourselves as we took a quick cycle trip into Italy).

Parisians were joyous once again as restaurants are now able to open fully not just terraces to match the rest of the country.

June 21st Above: Guides Katie and Susan taking locals on a day trip to Italy over the Col Petit St. Bernard. Below: Guides Susan and David at the Italian Border

Museums, tourist attractions, gyms, swimming pools were also given the green light to reopen earlier than today's date and all across France we celebrated the much loved Fête de la Musique.

So what does Phase 3 bring? Schools reopened fully today without the social distancing measure previously in place, cinemas, casinos's all reopened and team sports can resume.

All Holiday centres are reopened and employees in offices may return to work this week. Masks continue to be obligatory for public transportation and that is expected to last for the remainder of the year.

Update to travel after July 1st. The EU has stated they are still on target to re open their borders as of July 1st on a gradual basis to NON European travellers. ( insert huge high five!

Summer 2020 Newsletter - La Rentrée , Planning in Covid Times and E-bike Tours.

Sat, 29 Aug 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Summer 2020 Newsletter - La Rentrée and Planning!

With the first week of September looming, normally at this time of year we at FCH are at our busiest just like “La Rentrée” that is happening through France as we write this. In all stores, on the radio and in the newspapers you will see “ La Rentrée” advertised. It is the term used to indicate that summer holidays have ended and the children are returning to school. Mums and Dads everywhere are giving each other high fives. It similar to the ‘Back to School” campaigns we see in other countries but more intense!. La Rentrée is also a special time for the wonderful French boulangeries….it is the time of year you see chocolate squares baked into a chunk of baguette! Baguette au chocolat! Baguette au chocolat!

The first time I saw it I thought the baker had run out of the lovely flaky pastry they normally use for a pain au chocolat! But no, it is something that mums and dads will pack into their kids school bags for “ Le Goûter”. Goûter which means to taste isusually afternoon snack time for kids to tide them over to dinner. Admittedly our French friends tell us that they may also give the children baguette au chocolate at breakfast if it makes life easier!

Along with La Rentrée comes planning…parents , schools companies planning for the term to come. For us at FCH we normally do not have a tour scheduled in the third week of August as we know that it is the last week of holiday scramble but it also gives us a week to plan and move around our bike fleets to cover the various regions we will be cycling in for September and October and also start the planning process with the hotels for the next summer.

Planning….not so easy this year!

This year planning seems to be just as much of a topic of conversation as La Rentrée. Everyone we talk to and not just in the travel tourism industry, but other industries, personal friends and family are talking about planning for the future and how do we successfully plan when our world is still in flux?

We follow the news like everyone else and we get to hear a lot of things.

We know the virus is still circulating and will continue to circulate until a vaccine is discovered and administered in enough numbers to have the “herd immunity” we all hear about.

We are getting and understand the message that we must “learn” to live with the virus and each individual is responsible for following “les gestes barrières” - protection measures to help stop the spread.

Leaving your home with a mask is, these days, as normal as leaving the house with your house keys.

While our lives seemed to have stood still at the height of the pandemic, we know that it was also a world turned of clearer skies, reductions in litter and waste, cleaner waters and canals and returning wildlife.

This time has also shown the world that the bicycle has become a preferred method of travel, not only for recreation and vacations but for commuting and short trips to the stores. We of course already shared this sentiment!

We know that travel to a “Hot Spot” now has a new meaning but what we don’t know is how you, your family, your friends feel about travel in the future and it is that factor alone that makes La Rentrée and planning even more difficult this year.

So how are we planning?

We are hopeful for the future, that we will receive an even better passenger experience on trains and planes as companies have reevaluated their processes. We hope that measures put in place to stop overcrowding at tourist `hot spots” will continue, but above all that like us your passion for travel and curiosity to explore new places will not fade.

We thank all of you for your continued loyalty and faith in us. We already have a 2021 calendar up on our website and are currently working on fine-tuning. The schedule will primarily be driven by all of you that booked with us this year and have already expressed your desire for what tours to move your credit.

What’s next?

In October we will send everyone who had a booking with us this year an email. If you have re-scheduled your email will include the amount of your credit and confirmation of the tour we have registered you for in 2021. If you have not re-scheduled you will receive an email with the amount of your credit and we will be asking about what your thoughts are on future travel.

Not ready to travel?

We also recognise that some of you may not feel that travelling will be right for you next year so we are aiming to also out put a 2022 schedule up to assist with any planning.We are conscious that for tours for the earlier part of next summer May, June may feel too close to book for now if people are still living with uncertainty about travelling. For those months you may see a change from the past. We are looking to only schedule one tour a week in those months vs two a week.

So as we sit in our offices and mull this over we hope you are all out enjoying your bikes as much as you can and we leave you with the below to read.

E-Bike tour of the Tarn Gorges

Following the reaction to our initial tours, we feel the Mt Aigoual, Tarn Gorges Cevennes is an amazing area that more people should explore but that perhaps without an e-bike it may prove challenging. Therefore teaming up with France Bike Rentals we are now offering this as primarily an E- bike tour but of course should you wish to ride a regular bike that is always available!

We are taking bookings for our 2021 cycling tours across France; for full details, check out our website. And, as always, you can contact Mike, Susan or Joe by phone +44 1923 894305, or email - fch@frenchcyclingolidays.com if you would like to discuss any of our tours in greater detail.

Autumn 2020 update, credit notes and planning for 2021!

Mon, 02 Nov 2020 00:00:00 +0000

The beginning of another season.....We have come to the end of our 2020 summer season and as usual we like to reflect back on all the new people we have met, great memories we have made, the fabulous meals we have shared and all the kilometers we have cycled together. We have put together a montage of photos to remind you of all the beautiful places we saw this season.

David riding in his backyard.

The End.

But seriously (!) who could have known last November as we sat here in our UK offices reviewing the 2019 season, tweaking routes, contacting hotels , vineyards, restaurants etc. that 2020 would be year we would never forget. We could sit here and write about why we will never forget summer 2020 but I am pretty sure that all our readers would rather be out on their bikes planning their next adventure than reading what we already know.

So let's get on with planning Summer 2021!

In the last few weeks, everyone with bookings from this summer will have received their new invoices for the tours they re-registered for in 2021, or a credit note to be used for any future tour with us. If you have not received it, please check your SPAM folders or call us at 0044 1923 894305.

We understand that the world is still in flux and that travel remains restricted in some countries, but we remain positive that travel will resume and that we will explore France together by bike.

We have read many newsletters and website in our industry recently advising people they will be selecting hotels and restaurants who have implemented new sanitary protocols and have strict controls in place to make you feel safe.

Of course, we have enacted the same procedures, but additionally we would like to add that we already partner with great hotels, some large, some boutique, family owned accommodations and amazing restaurants who offer warm welcomes, pride themselves on their cleanliness and love to share the French culture and way of life with you. Therefore we will continue to use same quality accommodations and restaurants we have always used and when selecting new places to stay or visit we will look for the same characteristics used in the past because it is these relationships which we have built and trusted over the years to always welcome us and keep us safe that makes us want to return to them.

We will highlight a few of our amazing tour accommodations in the next few blogs for you to explore ….( and we have many many more!)

Exploring some of our hotels Part 1 - Burgundy Wine Explorer Tour

Fri, 06 Nov 2020 00:00:00 +0000

In our Autumn/Fall Newsletter we told you we will highlight some of the amazing locations we stay at. All selected for the character, charm and for the people who run them! We have missed all of our partners this year and we look forward to introducing them to you when you holiday with us next year! Here is a taste of one of our amazing accommodations from our tour in "Bourgogne" Burgundy region of France.

Burgundy Wine Explorer Tour

Cycling in Burgundy often takes people by surprise due to the sheer amount of vineyards that we ride through. La Bourgogne is not often thought of as the “wine destination” and people are genuinely excited to learn about the wines of Burgundy and intrigued in how they relate to the many Châteaux and Abbeys in the region.

So where better to start than a stay at the magnificent Château d’Igé?

Surrounded by vineyards, the first documented history of the Château d’Igé begins with a legal document in 1235, bearing the seal of King Louis IX. The document discusses the subject that the Abbaye de Cluny was trying to prevent the Count de Mâcon, Lord of Igé, from constructing a fortified manor.

Shortly after the fall of the Bastille during the French Revolution, the Château d’ Igé was sacked and pillaged, with some outbuildings destroyed. As the story goes, the lord of the château, had to abandon the property and hide in the woods. It is believed the château was especially targeted because the lord had laid claim to a well and had even gone so far as to enclose it. When the revolutionaries ransacked the property, the enclosure around the well was the first to be destroyed.The château gradually deteriorated until 1972 when Henri Jadot restored and transformed the property into a hotel which it remains today and weclomes you on the first night our Burgundy Tour! Your stay in this luxury Castle hotel will not disappoint.You will be sad to leave but will need to get on your bike the next morning and ride to the Abbaye de Cluny to continue the history of the regions and it’s wine!. To book or for more details click here.

Room at Chateau D'Ige

Each room has its own style and character, some with vaulted ceilings, canopy beds, period fireplaces and tower rooms that will take you back in time but leave you with the feeling of warmth. And while the rooms are magnificent, the famous restaurant under the George Blanc signature is where you will experience dining just like the Kings and Queens of its past!

Exploring some of our hotels Part 2 - Provence Tours!

Tue, 17 Nov 2020 00:00:00 +0000

In our Autumn/Fall Newsletter we told you we will highlight some of the amazing locations we stay at. All selected for the character, charm and for the people who run them! We have missed all of our partners this year and we look forward to introducing them to you when you holiday with us next year! Here is another one of our accommodations, this one from our tours in Provence - Roman Heritgage and Provence - Lavender in Luberon.

View from the terrace of the avenue of Plane trees

When you choose an accommodation and use it for two of your tours you know it is something special. A few years ago we needed a new start location for our Provence tours and selected the Hotel L’Hermitage. For us it depicts the exact essence of a typical Provencal home. And a home is exactly what it feels like when you stay here. Owners Philippe and Marie and their wonderful dog Oscar could not be more welcoming. The house is set in a century old park with a newly installed swimming pool to relax by and soak in the provencal sun. The sound of the cicadas as you stroll in the garden, admiring the fountains and statues hidden around the grounds, followed by a glass of Rosé on the terrace instantly puts you in vacation mode as you get ready to ride down a lane of Plane trees to the old iron gates of the manor to start your cycling adventure. To book or for more details email us at fch@frenchcycling.com or click here.

Terrace of the Hotel l'Hermitage

Beaujolais Nouveau Day? Do you celebrate it?

Fri, 20 Nov 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Since the 1950's the third Thursday of November is a day for wine lovers to get excited!!!! The wine snobs may disagree but we here at FCH fully support the love shown for today!! Beaujolais Nouveau!!! Yes that is right, Beaujolais Nouveau Day ( New Beaujolais)!

What is that you ask?

Gamay grapes grown in the Beaujolais region ( just north of Lyon) from the most recent harvest ( thus Nouveau or new) are handpicked in bunches and winemakers use a special technique to hasten the maceration so that the wine is ready to drink within 6 weeks! The wine officially goes on sale at midnight on the third Wednesday of November and therefore Thursday became Beaujolais Nouveau Day. Sold around the world many people look forward to the day and celebrate this new wine.

Here in France we would normally have a “fête” with our neighbours each bringing a few bottles and celebrate into the wee hours of the morning. Slightly different this year with the current restrictions but nonetheless we at FCH will all be toasting with a bottle tonight!

French Traditions - Gingerbread Saint Nicolas Biscuit recipe

Tue, 08 Dec 2020 00:00:00 +0000

Walking into the boulangerie this weekend there was a new yummy smell besides the normal bread and pain au chocolate. Upon seeing me sniff the air the Boulangeress ( could be a made up word!) told me they were making the Biscuits de Noel…..huh n’est ce pas trop tôt? Is it not too early?

In many European countries December 6 , Saint Nicolas Day is celebrated. It is not a national holiday, more of a religious observance. However like many holidays along with the religious aspect there are non religious traditions that accompany them.

A very brief history - Saint Nicolas, a bishop, lived in an ancient city of Turkey between 250AD and 270 AD. He was thought to have been a protector of children and widows often leaving them gifts and money in their shoes to help them throughout the year. Upon his death on December 6 his tomb apparently became the site of many miracles. As the story goes a Knight from France stole one of Saint Nicolas’ finger bones and brought it back to his home town, and a number of miracles started to happen there as well.

So how do Biscuits de Noel fit in? On the night of December 5th, children place their shoes beside the door. In the morning when they awake they find their shoes filled with candies, nuts, fruits and coins. During the day of the 6th a donkey carrying a basket full of spiced biscuits walks through the villages offering a blessing to everyone. These biscuits shaped like a bishop are called the biscuit de noel.

Below I share a recipe for the Gingerbread St Nicolas biscuits from Aurelie at Mademoiselle Cuisine , and a picture of the ones we made . I did not have a bishop shaped cookie cutter however if you visit the link here from Aurelie, she has kindly provided a template for use. I found this after I made my star cookies! I chose not to ice them and instead just used icing sugar. Your choice! These biscuits should be chewy not crunchy.

Gingerbread Saint Nicholas Cookies

Ingredients

For the gingerbread cookies

500 grams flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
200 grams sugar
250 grams honey ( Acacia or all flowers works nicely
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon ground anise
¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
½ cup water

Instructions

In a small bowl, mix all the spices (cinnamon, anise, cloves, nutmeg)
Pour the spices in a bowl. Add flour, baking powder and sugar. Mix.
Add honey. Knead the dough by hand or with the food processor.
Add half of the water.
Continue to knead the dough without adding the remaining water even if it may seem a bit dry at first.
After a few minutes, add the remaining water, if necessary. The dough should not be sticky. If this is the case, add a little flour.
Form a ball with the dough, cover with plastic wrap and set aside for at least 1 hour at room temperature.
Preheat oven to 350F/180C.
Roll the dough to about 1 cm thick on a floured work surface.
Cut out shapes with cookie cutters or a knife with the help of the template.
Arrange the gingerbread on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, leaving enough space between them.
Bake for about 15 minutes.
Cool cakes on a wire rack.

A Bordeaux Bespoke Tour Experience.

Wed, 09 Dec 2020 00:00:00 +0000

We often get requests for bespoke cycling tours and this time round our customers were looking for Wine exploring in Bordeaux as well as a gastronomic food experience. For those who know our fearless leader Mike you will know that he is a keen foodie and can talk about wine in his sleep - he was most certainly up for the challenge. How does a bespoke tour work? You tell us what distances you would like to ride, types of places you want to visit and we look to make that happen. This group of men were looking for longer days in the saddle than most of our tours, wine tastings and Michelin star restaurants. What did they get....the best!

Mike arranged wine tastings workshops with an oenologist, a wine blending class where each participant created their own wine and took home a small bottle labeled with their name and more. For the gastronomic food? My mouth waters remembering Mikes choices.

The exquisite Michelin starred restaurant Logis de la Cadène in St Emilion ( click here for a peak at the menu always seasonal and fresh), the gastronomic and also Michelin starred L'Auberge St Jean located 10 minutes outside St Emilion with tables set overlooking the Dordgone river and many other gastronomic delights awaited the boys that week. Pricing for bespoke trips vary according to your wants and can be tailored to your group. If you are interested in your own tour contact us via email or phone.

The boys sent us a short clip of their time with us! Enjoy!

A little fun...answer questions about our tours to find the word of the month!

Mon, 25 Jan 2021 00:00:00 +0000

A quick and easy quiz to while your tine away while waiting to travel with us again! The first letter of each answer is used to form a hidden word. Hint: We are hoping the uptake of this will become faster.

Questions:

The French word for wine is...?
If you were to order a Flammekueche what area of France would we be in?
On our Provence Roman Heritage tour, what famous wine area do we cycle through and stop for a tasting?
What features on every FCH picnic along with a baguette?
A classic French childhood treat of sticky poached meringues in a pool of creme anglaise is named?
What area of France is Mont Saint-Michel located in?
For those who are looking for a little extra assistance when Cycling on one of our lumpier routes for example our Mont Aigoual and Cevennes tour, what type of bike can we offer you?

Scroll past the picture for the answers!

Answers

Vin
Alsace
Chateau Neuf de Pape
Cheese
île Flottante
Normandy
E-Bikes

Word of the month: VACCINE

It is not just about the cycling...we love Food!

Tue, 02 Feb 2021 00:00:00 +0000

As you know our tours are not just about the cycling, we believe in great food and wine to reward all the cycling we do. Every year we research restaurants both from the office and on the ground, looking for both great reviews and word of mouth feedback, and if our choice of restaurants always receives particular appreciation in your feedback. Mind you anyone who has had one of our picnics knows it is not always the restaurant serving the best meal of the day. ( The guides made me put that in!)

Each year restaurants wait with bated breath to see if their restaurants are granted a coveted Michelin star, or an extra toque in the Guide Gault Millau ( this is the chef's accolade, because it focusses purely on the food and not the décor!) With Covid 19 pretty much wiping out most business opportunities it was with surprise that we read that stars were still to be awarded. A feat that perhaps even harder to achieve last year due to the amount of time the restaurants were required to be closed. Being creative in these times we know has been key for the survival of many businesses and restaurants were no exception. France, being well known for its gastronomy and love for long social lunches and even longer dinners had to decide; would the French people appreciate the efforts to offer a takeaway or, without the convivial ambience of the restaurant would the kitchens close?

Luckily for food lovers, French gourmets rallied round. Michelin starred restaurants in many cases adapted menus to ensure the deliverance of the takeaway did not comprise their standard and in many cases cut prices on these offerings. Enterprising individuals realized quickly that this was a real opportunity with Foodtruck and Pop Up offerings of quality food. Of note was the two time Michelin starred chef Alexandre Mazzia who sold over 200 Michelin star quality meals each day from a food truck in Marseille for 30€ and was awarded his 3rd star. If you fly into Marseille at the beginning of your French Cycling Holiday, book in advance to reserve a table at his restaurant eponymously named AM par Alexandre Mazzia.

And, closer to French Cycling home, it is with great pleasure that we annonce the restaurant at one of our long-time hotels, the Chateau de Mazan has received its first Michelin Star.⭐️ We have been staying many years at the former home of the Marquis de Sade on the last evening on our Provence Luberon Tour eating and sleeping in this beautiful Chateau - what better way to celebrate riding the spectacular Gorges de la Nesque or conquering Mont Ventoux? While sadly for 2020 we were unable to run any of our tours as many of you could not travel to us, we therefore missed out on eating the creations of this new chef, but we look forward to eating there in 2021.

The head of restaurant review for the Michelin guide did assure the public that the same rigour used in previous years by their inspectors was used in 2020. Inspectors worked double time and forwent their summer holidays in order to eat and drink in as many French restaurants that were open between the Spring and Autumn lockdown, judging as many meals as the previous years…Hmmm if this statement was supposed to make us feel for the clearly overworked inspectors, it has fallen flat on this particular writer!

Current Travel Rules, Vaccine updates and Yes, We are open for business!

Fri, 19 Mar 2021 00:00:00 +0000

Bonjour tout le monde! We hope you are all healthy and getting out on your bikes (if allowed !) We have been receiving inquiries about booking trips for late summer and fall which is exciting and we thank you! We do believe the planning and excitement leading up to a vacation are great for our mental status and even more so this year. We are also receiving messages that many of you have already been vaccinated and asking about the status of the opening of the French borders. Below we’ll attempt to update you on the current situation.

Do we need to have a vaccine or vaccine passport for our holiday?

The national vaccine program in France is still ongoing. You will have seen in the news this week that France along with other EU countries suspended the use of one of the vaccines for 48 hours. Please be aware that there are 3 other vaccines also being administered. There is a feeling that this is not always fully understood.

Many believe that France had no choice other than to follow the suit of other countries in suspending the vaccine but the government has very clearly stated that once the European Medicines Agency (the agency in the European Union in charge of the evaluation and supervision of medicinal products) passes its opinion on the vaccine in question it will be reinstated. Today the 19th of March 2021 it was.

To date, the team in the UK has been vaccinated, and some of the local guides in France received theirs last week, with others scheduled for mid-April.

Vaccine Passports

There is a lot of press around the world about countries creating digital vaccine passports or within the EU the "digital green pass" for those wanting to travel. Air France, in cooperation with the French Government, announced on March 11th they are launching a one-month trial of a phone application of a vaccination passport.

We do not have a lot of information on this yet but do know this is and will continue to be a controversial subject concerning the rights of individuals. IATA ( International Air Transport Association) has also indicated that there needs to be a universal solution. Please feel free to ask us any questions if any if this is not clear or you would like further information, and we’ll try our best!

Travel Rules...for the minute...

Keeping up with travel rules is a bit like the breakaway in the Tour De France, just when they think they are in the clear, the peloton reels them back in! Between vaccine shortages in some countries, suspension of vaccines in others; and an abundance of vaccines elsewhere is it any wonder that it is difficult for leaders around the world to determine who can travel and where? Never mind mere mortals like us trying to weave our way through the peloton to get back up front.

France has announced that as of March 12 persons traveling from Australia, Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea, and the United Kingdom no longer need a compelling reason to travel here. Great news, sort of.....

Whilst the French government will allow travel into the country there are still many requirements that go along with that travel. Seven-day quarantine, a nationwide curfew from 6 pm to 6 am, restaurants and cultural places remain closed, certain areas including Paris are in lockdown until the beginning of April, and a requirement of a negative test - and that is just to get in. You then have to find a way back to the country you have traveled from.

Not an ideal vacation just yet!!

Updates to current regulations on the opening of restaurants, curfew lifting, etc are expected in April with the government indicating they expect to have a summer season IF they can continue with their vaccine program. Much like the UK, the USA vaccine program is deemed a success and the overall health situation is reported as improving. Macron has said they will continue to review with hopes for a reopening of borders between the two countries at the beginning of summer. This is also dependent on France's health situation. We do not currently have any information relayed for Canada .

The Bottom line - We are open for business.

Whilst we can not definitively advise you what the season will look like, if you would like to book with us, please email us with the tour you are interested in. We will NOT be taking deposit bookings until we know travel is back open and we can run the tour, but we are happy to discuss your travel plans. Knowing what tour you are interested in will allow us to better provide an idea of how many people we have wanting to take the same tour and assist us in letting our hotel providers know what rooms we may need. We have more confidence in tours running September and onwards and will be removing tours earlier in the year where no one is registered.

We will continue to monitor the travel rules and update via our Facebook, Instagram, and website.

As always we are available to talk by phone and respond to email questions. For full details, check out our website. And, as always, you can contact Mike, Susan, or Joe by phone +44 1923 894305, or email - fch@frenchcyclingolidays.com if you would like to discuss any of our tours in greater detail.

Fun Fact of 2020! Yes there is one!

Tue, 23 Mar 2021 00:00:00 +0000

Fun fact about 2020 - yes there is one!

Photo by Claudio Schwarz | @purzlbaum on Unsplash

Comfort food defined by the Oxford dictionary is a food that provides consolation or a feeling of well-being, typically associated with childhood or home cooking. Therefore when you ask someone what is their go-to “comfort food” the answer may vary by culture and by the individual. It has been reported recently in the news that with restaurants closed for much of 2020, the French turned to nourriture de confort (and wine of course).

Purchases in shops and home delivery of food skyrocketed - Can you guess what is France’s comfort food of choice?

La Fromage - glorious cheese!

Amongst the most popular of these, coming in at number 2, was Raclette, a cow's cheese that is melted and then typically poured over potatoes and cured meats; a perennial favourite in the mountains, and familiar to skiers and other Alpine types, maybe the cold weather of winter lockdown prompted a yearning for the warming comfort of melted cheese! Interested in trying a raclette? Click here for our boutique cycling and cooking tour available throughout the year.

Third on the list was Comte, one of the many kinds of cheese that feature on our picnics and always goes down well, particularly the potent 24-month aged version that is the perfect accompaniment for a powerful Bordeaux red or a beautiful Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Join us in Bordeaux or Provence to try this combo.

Surprisingly, the largest increase in sales at 22% was not a French cheese - quelle horreur!!! It was an Italian mozzarella….miam miam…perhaps homemade pizza is also a comfort food…

Spring into Summer update!

Fri, 14 May 2021 00:00:00 +0000

May 2021 - Spring into Summer Update

We hope you have all survived the last year with limited travel and are as excited as us with the reopening of France over the next few weeks.With the recent announcement that France is further opening its borders to Non-EU tourists, my email box has been brimming with questions! We are very much wanting to see all of you and thought we would give you a few key dates of stages of reopening in France so you can fully understand where we are at.

KEY DATES

May 19, 2021

Gatherings of more than10 people will be allowed and our current curfew is pushed back from 7pm to 9pm. In bigger news, if we want to have a meal outside of our own kitchens ( and we all know we do!) then a meal out is possible IF the bar or restaurant have an outside seating area. However, restauranters are only allowed 50% capacity on the terrace. With many terraces able to seat 25, this leaves them with 10-15 people which is not economical for many to reopen at this time. If you are lucky to be in an area with a restaurant terrace open we are restricted to 6 per table. Inside dining is still prohibited at this date.

June 9, 2021

We welcome tourists back to France - with a Health Pass! More details about the Health Pass will be shared within the next few weeks, however in essence the idea is that anyone who has been vaccinated by one of the 4 vaccines; Pfizer- BioNTech, Moderna, AstraZeneca and Janssen (Johnson & Johnson); has a negative Covid test within 72 hours or has recently recovered from Covid will be allowed entry into France.

Reopening of all cafés and restaurants inside and outside allowed, with the same 50% capacity restriction in place and we are allowed to stay up a little later.

June 30, 2021

We are no longer teenagers - End of Curfew! We can have a private party with 1000 of you or 800 indoors if it is raining! Restaurants are to be back to full capacity, tourist attractions and cultural sites fully opened.

We are taking reservations and currently have plans for the following dates:

September 5, 2021 - Provence Villages of the Luberon

September 12, 2021 - Legendary Cols of the French Alps - LAST FEW

September 19, 2021 - Bordeaux Vineyards

September 26, 2021 - Loire Valley

October 3, 2021 - Mediterranean Coast and Canal du Midi - LAST FEW

October 10, 2021 - Provence Roman Heritage

October 17, 2021 - Coming soon....( Based on demand)

If there is a tour that you are interested in and is not on the above list please contact us at fch@frenchcycling.com.

For earlier dates, if you have a group of 6 or more that can join a tour together we will be happy to look at organizing a tour. If you are in France and looking for a short stay combining cycling and cooking or cycling and yoga ( minimum 3 nights); take a look at our bespoke tours found on our website here. Please as always contact Mike, Joe or Susan at +44 1923 894305 or by email at fch@frenchcyclingholidays.com or through any of our social media messaging for any questions or queries!

How was our 2021 Season? We tell you in our latest blog!

Tue, 04 Jan 2022 00:00:00 +0000

2021 was a short but sweet season for us!

Our season did not start until September when we welcomed old friends from Canada, Finland and the United States, and some new friends from Switzerland and the United States.

We started off in Provence, discovering the villages of the Provence Luberon Valley. Many people are lured there due to the popularity of the book a Year in Provence, penned by the author Peter Mayle who documented stories of his life there, and the romance of the Russell Crowe movie “A Good Year”. Maybe the name "Luberon Valley" is still somewhat unknown, but perhaps that is why our customers are always so enchanted and charmed by this area when they do join us. Provence is one of those areas that we can travel to almost all year round because of the great weather! Below picture is dining outside at the Moulin de Lourmarin.

From there we headed north to the French Alps, for one of our mountain sports tours. It was one of those weeks where the weather gods were not always in our favour, but as one of our long-time sports tour customers told us "these are the tours we remember for years to come". I do not disagree! Getting to the summit of one of the famous tour de France climbs on a regular day is an achievement in itself but battling epic weather in the mountains and still cycling to the summit is medal-worthy! If you are a cycling club looking for a challenge this year or just want to get some mileage in your legs before an event, check out our tours and contact us to let us know what your group is looking for. We require a minimum of 8 to create a private custom tour and 6 for one of our scheduled tours.

One of the sunny days by Lake Annecy.....

One of the not-so-sunny days riding the Cormet de Roseland!

From the Alps, we drove cross country to Bergerac where we started our somewhat revised Bordeaux Tour. For many in the tourism industry, the last two years have been tough. As a result, some of our regular hotels and restaurants had to reduce services or chose to take the time to close and renovate.

As with everything in life, sometimes when one door closes another opens! The closures gave us an opportunity to try out new places and we met some great new people on the way. One new highlight of the Bordeaux Tour for 2021 was our stay at the wonderful Château Vigiers. With a sprawling estate to wander around, a beautifully manicured 18-hole golf course, and two on-site restaurants, it won our hearts and we look forward to staying there for two nights for 2022.

We also managed a visit to Amanda and David, owners of The Naked Vigneron, an organic winery not far from Chateau Vigiers and were warmly welcomed for a late afternoon wine and cheese tasting on their shaded terrace overlooking the estate. A great way to ease yourself into the week. Lastly, we had the opportunity to work with Laetitia from Chateau Vieux Mougnac. We started with learning about this year's crop, a walk through the vines, a tour of the cellar, picnic in the garden and then finished with a wine blending workshop where we each took home our own bottle of custom-blended wine! If those sounds like fun to you, join our June 12th tour to experience it yourself!

Click here to book.

We are taking bookings for 2022 and look forward to hearing from you!

The Secrets of Cognac

Sun, 13 Feb 2022 00:00:00 +0000

On our Cognac and the Charente Tour, we always visit one of the legendary Houses that make this very special brandy, such as Courvoisier, Martell or Hennessey. And of course, as well getting the lowdown on how the spirit is produced, we always sample the product at the end of the tour! If you would like to know a bit more about this king of spirits, read on!

History

In the 16th century, Dutch traders were making bases along the west coast of France to supply both Holland and its worldwide empire. Although the famous clarets of Bordeaux were very popular, keeping the wines in good condition over long journeys was problematic, so a few enterprising traders started distilling the wine into eau de vie, the generic name for spirit drinks (whisky is derived from the Gaelic for "Water of Life" which means the same thing). The distilled spirits could be transported without degrading, and proved popular in their own right. The Dutch merchants called their product brandewijn (‘burnt wine’), and this became corrupted by English merchants as "Brandy". The traders also realised that they could up the alcohol content, and therefore save space, by double-distilling the spirit, and this became a feature of the region.

In the Eighteenth Century, with Dutch influence waning, other merchants arrived and founded the great Cognac houses; Jean Martell the first in 1715, followed soon by Rémy-Martin, with Richard Hennessey arriving from Ireland in 1755. These years saw the glass technology evolve so that it became possible for the brandy to be shipped in bottles, rather than casks: this advance saw for the first time the name Cognac appearing on the end product, so that consumers would know where their drink came from, and because of this the reputation of quality for the eaux-de-vie from the Charente region became established.

Production

Unlike prestigious wine growers, Cognac producers do not grow their own grapes, but rather buy in from growers surrounding the towns of Jarnac and Cognac. Our Cognac and Charente ride takes place entirely within the catchment area for these grapes. The grapes used are not the familiar ones known to wine connoisseurs, being Ugni Blanc (known to Italians as Trebbiano), Folle Blanche and Colombard; these together have to make up 90% of the grape content in order to qualify for the Cognac appelation. The wine, always white, used for Cognac production is rather acidic and not particularly drinkable, but does have great attributes for distillation and aging. The grape growing area is divided into more- and less prestigious areas; briefly, the closer the vineyard is to Cognac and Jarnac, the more prestigious. These grapes will command higher prices and generally make up the bulk of the production of the big Houses.

The two most prestigious areas are called Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne (nothing to do with the fizzy stuff!) - if you see on a label "Cognac Fine Champagne", it means that the grapes come from these two areas and at least 50% from Grande Champagne. Outside of these two, radiating outwards in terms of desirability, are Fines Bois, Bons Bois, Borderies and Borderies Ordinaires. The region known as Borderies Ordinaires extends as far as the end of our ride in La Rochelle.

After pressing , the grape juice is left to ferment for 2-3 weeks, during which natural yeasts turn the sugar to alcohol; typically the resulting wine has 7-8% alcohol. The wine is then distilled twice in traditional Charentaise copper alembic stills, construction dimensions of which are prescribed in order to receive the cognac appelation. The resulting, clear, eau de vie has around a 70% alcohol content.

Aging and Blending.

The eau de vie is placed in oak barrels (from the forests of the Limousin to the north or Tronçais to the east) for aging. The minimum that the brandy must be aged before it can be legally sold as Cognac is 2 years. During this time it takes on flavour and colour from the wood, which has been toasted to enhance these aspects. The spirit loses volume through transpiration of the wood - the element lost to the atmosphere is known as the part des anges or "angels' share". Because alcohol is more volatile than water, a greater proportion of alcohol escapes, meaning that the brandy reduces in alcoholic content at roughly 4% per year so that after 10 years in the barrel the alcohol content is about 40%. Oak barrels only stop contributing flavour and colour after 40 or 50 years, so some barrels may be very old indeed!

When a Cognac is bottled and sold, its classification depends on the youngest spirit used in the blend. The classifications are as follows:

V.S. (Very Special) or ✯✯✯ (three stars) designates a blend in which the youngest brandy has been aged for at least two years in a cask.
V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) or Reserve designates a blend in which the youngest brandy is aged for at least four years in a cask.
Napoléon designates a blend in which the youngest brandy is aged for at least six years.
XO (Extra Old) The minimum age of the youngest brandy used in an XO blend is 10 years.
XXO (Extra Extra Old) is a specific indication given to wine spirits that have been aged for at least 14 years.

The abbreviations are of English words because the British were heavily involved in the export of Cognacs when the categories were introduced.

Drinking!

Cognac is often taken straight, and makes a great after dinner digestif. Usually poured into a balloon shaped glass, connoisseurs will warm the glass with the palm of their hand as this helps release the volatiles and enhances the flavours, which can contain notes of vanilla, nuts and flowers, and spices and candied fruits in very old cognacs.

However, as our visits will prove, the Cognac makers are not in the least precious about using their goods in cocktails! Cognac is less harsh than many other spirits, and brandy cocktails are very drinkable. Some of the more famous creations you might like to try:

Sidecar: 50ml cognac, 25ml Triple Sec, 25ml lemon juice, shaken over ice and strained.

Brandy Alexander: 50ml cognac, 33ml creme de cacao, 33ml cream, shaken over ice, strained and dusted with nutmeg.

Metropolitan: 60ml cognac, 30ml vermouth, 1tsp sugar syrup, dash of angostura bitters, shaken over ice and strained.

For a Between the Sheets, follow the Sidecar recipe but replace half the cognac with 25ml of white rum.

A very simple drink which was introduced to us at the Courvoisier distillery in Jarnac was a measure of Cognac over ice in a tall glass, topped up with ginger beer and a twist of orange peel. Absolutely delicious, and perfect for summer evenings!

The other secret of Cognac!

As you cycle along the River Charente and through the fields of sunflowers and vines on our Cognac and the Charente tour you will see signs on driveways and farm entrances for Pineau. Pineau, which is short for Pineau des Charentes, is the aperitif of choice in this part of the world. According to legend, a winemaker accidentally put unfermented grape juice into a barrel he believed to be empty, but unbeknownst to him contained a significant amount of eau-de-vie. When the barrel was opened a couple of years later, the resulting liquid was found to be absolutely delicious and a few enterprising winegrowers set about recreating it.

These days, cognac is added to unfermented grape juice (the assemblage must be done on the same day as the harvest to qualify for the Pineau appelation) and then matured for up to 2 years, including 8 months in oak casks. The resulting drink is around 17% in alcoholic content. Depending on the grapes used (white grapes are the same as for cognac, for red and rosé the Bordeaux grapes of Cabernet and Merlot are used) the Pineau is a deep amber colour (white grapes) or mahogany brown or dark pink in the case of reds and rosé.

Pineau, served chilled to 8 degrees, is the perfect pre-dinner drink; we always include a pre dinner pineau on the first night of our Cognac tour to welcome everyone to a fabulous week in the saddle.

Santé!!!

Quiz! March 2022

Mon, 28 Feb 2022 00:00:00 +0000

20 Questions on France and bikes and wine and food and all the good stuff! Answers underneath - no cheating! Let us know how you get on!

Questions

1. What grape is used for all red Burgundy wines?

2. Which King of the Franks became the first Holy Roman Emperor in 800AD?

3. What is the prefecture and chief city of the French department of Corsica?

4. Which French footballer with an alliterative name won both the World and European nations cup and subsequently became manager of Real Madrid?

5. Who painted "A Bar at the Folies Bergères (below)?

6. Which French cyclist, nicknamed Le Blaireau (The Badger) won the Tour de France 5 times, the Giro d'Italia 3 times, and the Vuelta a Espana twice?

7. What is the name of the Alpine dish where cheese is heated on a special machine then, when melted, scraped off to accompany charcuterie, vegetables and boiled potatoes?

8. In which city is the Café de Nuit, subject of one of Vincent Van Gogh's most famous paintings?

9. The film A Bout de Souffle directed by Jean-Luc Godard starring Jean-Paul Belmondo was remade in English in 1983 starring Richard Gere. What was its title, shared with a Jerry Lee Lewis song?

10. Which iconic car introduced in 1948 was designed to bring affordable motoring to France's rural communities and as such featured suspension which would enable it to drive across a ploughed field?

11. The liqueur Chambord, which is produced a few kilometers from the château of the same name, is produced from which fruit?

12. Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo and Thomas Bangalter. make up which enigmatic French electro-pop band?

13: Which river has tributaries including the Saône, Durance, Gardon and Nesque?

14: Which French word means the mechanism used to shift the chain between gears on a bicycle?

15: Who wrote this piece of music?:

16: Which French brothers invented the hot-air balloon (and give their name to the French word for hot-air balloon)?

17: Which shade of dark pink/purple/red is named after the 1859 battle in the Second Italian War of Independence won by Napoleon III?

18: The famous south west France dish called Cassoulet, comprising haricot beans and various different meats, comes traditionally in 3 variants; Toulouse and Castelnaudary are two; what is the third, named for the walled medieval city on the Canal du Midi?

19: Which Parisian singer's hit Je T'aime (Moi Non Plus) was banned by the BBC for being too sexually explicit?

20: Which race track in Western France features in the titles of 2 films, the first in 1971 starring Steve McQueen and the second in 2019 starring Matt Damon and Christian Bale?

Answers

1: Pinot Noir

2: Charlemagne

3: Ajaccio

4: Zinedine Zidane

5: Edouard Manet

6: Bernard Hinault

7: Raclette

8: Arles - if you want to visit this café yourself, join us on the Roman Heritage tour!

9: Breathless

10: Citroen 2CV

11: Raspberries (specifically black raspberries)

12: Daft Punk

13: The Rhône (which runs through the heart of our Provence and Burgundy tours!)

14: Derailleur (usually prononced "de-rail-ee-ur" in English!)

15: Camille Saint-Saens (The piece is "Fossils" from Carnival of the Animals)

16: Montgolfier

17: Magenta

18: Carcassonne, the final stop on our Mediterranean Coast tour!

19: Serge Gainsbourg (with Jane Birkin)

20: Le Mans

How did you do?? Let us know by e-mail and if you thought it was too hard or too easy, and we'll put another one up next month!

Here Comes the Sun! March 2022 Update

Sat, 26 Mar 2022 00:00:00 +0000

With the birds chirping and small buds appearing on the trees around us, we can only hope the winter is coming to an end here in the French Alps, the base for many of our guides, and that we are soon back on our bikes! Not sure about anyone else, but we feel it has been a long winter already!

We are comforted and somewhat envious of the images coming from our hotel partners south of us who are starting to re-open for the upcoming season and we cannot wait to join them. For those who have joined us on our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi Tour, you will have noticed some Spanish influences as we are close to the Spanish border. We often start and finish our season down south as this is where the sun gets to work first and the last warmth of the season continues.

This year, French Cycling holidays are starting the season with a bespoke custom cycle tour crossing that border into Spain! This is in the early part of May so follow us on our social media channels for the pictures! We are also finishing this year on a Balearic beat with a trip to Mallorca in October. For any keen road cyclists out there, contact Susan at fch@frenchcyclingholidays.com for further details.

A Drop of the hard stuff...

Following Spain and then Provence (how can we miss Provence in May?!); we head west from the Mediterranean towards the Atlantic coast riding through Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne……no, not that Champagne! Think fewer bubbles, more alcohol…

Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne in fact have nothing to do with the sparkling drink but refer to the two most prestigious areas in the Cognac appellation of the Charente. Our Cognac and Atlantic Coast tour starting June 5th features leisurely flat riding and of course, a sip or two of the famous Cognac should you be so inclined. It also features some fabulous coastal rides and the historic cities of Rochefort and La Rochelle. Click here to read our latest Blog about the area. If you’d like to book on to the June 5 Cognac and Atlantic Coast with guides Katie and Roger, you can sign up here.

Have you decided where you want to Cycle for Summer 2022?

With borders back open to France, mask-wearing being phased out and hospital admissions low, we are looking forward to welcoming everyone from all over the world to join us again. Our schedule is listed on our website here so please take a look.

If you don't see what you are looking for. please send us an email at fch@frenchcyclingholidays.com or call us in the office and we can see what we can do.

We have customers registered for the following dates already and are looking for more of you to join in!

June 5, 2022 - Cognac and the Atlantic Coast

June 19, 2022 - Dordogne

July 10, 2022 - Provence

August 7 2022 - Bordeaux

August 14, 2022 - Pyrenees

August 28, 2022 - Dordogne

September 4, 2022 - Loire

September11, 2022 Provence

September 18, 2022 - Med & Midi

Meanwhile… If you want to brush up on your knowledge of all things French, we are running a monthly quiz to get you in the mood for some Gallic culture. The March edition is up on the website – click here!

Let us know how you get on – the best scores (honesty please, no googling!) will qualify for a prize to be presented on whichever tour you book!

Wonderful Saint-Emilion!

Tue, 14 Feb 2023 00:00:00 +0000

A highlight of our Bordeaux Wine tour is the delightful village of Saint-Emilion. Although part of the Bordeaux wine appellation, it’s winemakers are proud of the reputation that has made it one of the most famous labels in the world.

The wine

To be classified St-Emilion AOC, the grapes must come from quite a small geographical area – 5,400 hectares, or 13,000 acres, covering the town and 7 satellite communes. This area represents just 6% of the total Bordeaux wine region. Within this small area there are over 1000 producers, so most vignerons have relatively small vineyards. The compact area is also very handy for cycling, because from our base in the heart of the medieval village we can easily visit our favourite producers and take our time over tastings!

St-Emilion is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world, with a rich history dating back to Roman times. Its unique terroir, which includes limestone and clay soils, as well as a temperate climate, is well-suited for growing the Merlot and Cabernet Franc grape varieties that are commonly used in St-Emilion wines (there are no white or rosé St-Emilions!). The wines of St-Emilion are known for their complexity, elegance, and aging potential, the most prized vintages from the most sought-after producers can fetch stratospheric prices.

The wines have a higher proportion of merlot to cabernet than most wines of the Medoc, and this results in a rounder, less ‘robust’ wine.

St-Emilion wines are classified into four categories, which are referred to as "growths" or "crus" in French. These classifications are based on the quality and reputation of the vineyards and the wines they produce. The four classifications are:

Premier Grand Cru Classé A: This is the highest classification in St-Emilion, and is reserved for the very best vineyards, which are considered to produce the finest wines in the region.

Premier Grand Cru Classé B: This is the second-highest classification in St-Emilion, and is given to vineyards that are also considered to produce exceptional wines, but not quite at the level of the Premier Grand Cru Classé A.

Grand Cru Classé: This classification is given to vineyards that produce high-quality wines, but are not considered to be at the level of the Premier Grand Cru Classé A or B.

St-Emilion: This is the basic classification, which includes all of the other vineyards in the St-Emilion appellation. These wines are generally considered to be of good quality, but not at the level of the higher classifications.

The classifications are reviewed every 10 years, and these reviews are treated very, very seriously as they can have a massive impact on the prices that the wines will fetch. At the moment, only 4 château have the highest classification – Cheval Blanc, Ausone, Pavie and Angelus. As an example, a bottle of Château Ausone 2010 will currently cost £950/$1,200.

Now, if the fabulous wines were not sufficient reason to visit, the village itself is a destination in its own right. St-Emilion was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 in recognition of its exceptional cultural and historical significance. The cobbled streets and pantiled roofs can be seen in wonderful panorama from the terrace by the steeple of the monolithic church. The steeple is only the visible part of the church - It is a unique example of a subterranean church carved entirely out of a single piece of limestone rock.

The church was built during the 12th century by a monk named Émilion, who became the patron saint of the town. The church was carved out of a natural limestone cave, and the structure is supported by a series of columns and arches that were also carved out of the rock. The church's interior features several chapels, an altar, and a bell tower, and it has a capacity of up to 200 people.

A guided visit to the church is always a highlight of our two night stay in the village. Another very popular high point is a hands-on blending workshop - blend and bottle your own vintage! Together with a Michelin starred dining experience, the St-Emilion part of our Bordeaux Cycling and Wine tour is one of the most memorable of all of our trips! We've got spaces on our Bordeaux Vineyards tour on 18th June and a couple left on 27th August. Don't miss it!

Rochefort - a hidden gem!

Thu, 16 Feb 2023 00:00:00 +0000

At the end of the Charente river, where in past times barges brought barrels of cognac down to the sea to continue their voyages to England, Holland and the New World, stands the city of Rochefort. A highlight of our Cognac tour, Rochefort is packed with enough history to take a week over! Unfortunately we only stay in Rochefort for two nights, but we can pack a lot of experiences into two days!

Corderie Royale

Starting nearest the hotel (a walk across the lawns in fact!) is the Corderie Royale. The Royal Rope Factory (Corderie Royale) is a must-visit for anyone interested in naval history. The rope factory was established in the 17th century and supplied the French navy with ropes and cables for over 300 years. At the time it was the longest building in the world, due to the space required to create the lengths of rope for rigging the fighting ships. Today, it's a fascinating museum and cultural center with exhibits on the history of rope-making, shipbuilding, and navigation.

National Naval Museum

The National Naval Museum (Musée National de la Marine): This museum is another highlight for naval history enthusiasts. It has an impressive collection of ship models, paintings, and artifacts that showcase the history of the French navy.

L'Hermione

The Hermione is a replica of the famous ship that carried the Marquis de Lafayette to America during the American Revolution. It was built using traditional shipbuilding techniques and is a magnificent sight to behold. There is a permanent exhibition detailing the 18th century construction techniques used to recreate the ship, and then you can go on board to get an idea of the conditions faced by seafarers of the era.

Pont Transbordeur

The Pont Transbordeur, also known as the Rochefort-Martrou Transporter Bridge, is a unique bridge located in Rochefort, France. It was built in 1900 and spans the Charente River, connecting the towns of Rochefort and Echillais.

Unlike a traditional bridge, the Pont Transbordeur uses a suspended gondola to transport people and vehicles across the river. The gondola is suspended from a high gantry tower on one side of the river, and travels across the river on a cable. The gondola could carry up to 120 people and 8 cars at a time. This enabled tall ships to sail down the estuary without needing to open a swing bridge.

The Pont Transbordeur was in operation until 1967, when it was closed due to structural concerns. However, it was later restored and reopened to the public in 1994 as a historical monument. Today, visitors on foot or on bicycles can ride the gondola across the river and enjoy the views of the surrounding landscape from a unique perspective. We cycle into Rochefort on the bridge, and use it for the optional excursion the following day - it's a great way of keeping the biking to car-free routes!

Other highlights

Rochefort has all of the attractions of a substantial French provincial city - great shopping, a lively centre with shady squares with fountains and lined with cafés and bars.The Rochefort Arsenal: This historic complex was once a major center for naval construction and is now a cultural center that hosts concerts, exhibitions, and other events. Along the river you will find the Gardens of the Cordouan Lighthouse offering a peaceful oasis with stunning views of the surrounding landscape.

The city is worthy of a longer stay than we can manage, but we get the highlights in - maybe you'll be tempted to return! If you would like to experience the magic of Rochefort, we have spaces on our June 11th and Cognac and the Atlantic Coast tour- don't miss it!

France celebrates bike holidays!

Sun, 05 Mar 2023 00:00:00 +0000

2023 - A great season! - part 1

Thu, 19 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

As the summer draws to a close, we wanted to take a moment to express our heartfelt gratitude for the amazing cycling season we've had in France. This summer has been particularly special as we welcomed back our Australian friends in numbers for the first time since the pandemic, and with the World Cup being staged in France this year, we had the opportunity to learn more about their beloved Rugby!!

This summer has been an incredible journey filled with adventure, camaraderie, and unforgettable memories.

The journey begins...

We started our cycling adventures in the south, where our guests embarked on a picturesque journey from the fishing port of Sête to the magical walled city of Carcassonne. The Mediterranean Sea provided a refreshing backdrop for picnics and swimming, while the tranquil paths along the canal offered a serene cycling experience. Seeing our guests enjoy these beautiful locations reminded us of why we love this job! We have cyclists already registered for our May 5, 2024 and September 29, 2024 departures. Book your tour here.

A private affair!

At the end of May, we had the pleasure of hosting a private group of Canadian guests for a bespoke 10-day tour covering the Dordogne and Bordeaux regions. Our aim has always been to create tailor-made experiences for our customers, and this exceptional tour was a testament to that. We want you to know that we can customize tours for anyone who wishes for a truly unique adventure. The earlier we know how your dream holiday would look, the more time we have to make it happen! Just ask!

Back to the sea...

Continuing our journey, we ventured to the Atlantic coast and embarked on a new route based on valuable customer feedback. We now (based on seasonal averages!) have the wind at our back for most of the tour The route includes cycling around the cycle friendly Ile de Ré and spending time in the wonderful port city of La Rochelle, before following the coast and then heading inland to Cognac with its famous brandy. June 9th, 2024 is another guaranteed departure date. Book early to avoid disappointment of missing out!

The journey continues in part 2!

2023 - A great season! - part 2

Thu, 19 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

An old favourite!

In June, Ruth and Mike, the company owners, took charge of a very cosmopolitan group through the enchanting Loire Valley - an itinerary that is always makes for cherished memories for all who experiences it. Following the river past fairy tale castles, on (mostly!) flat roads where you rarely see a car. An astonishing meal in Amboise was followed by the unforgettable experience of dining under the walls of the magnificent Château de Chambord.

Our 2024 schedule has Loire Valley tour dates on 16th June and 7th July.

Welcome back old friends

Next on our list was a large group of Americans who rode through the Alsace region to honour the memory of their late father Jim, one of our first ever customers with French Cycling Holidays, and a charming and knowledgeable guest on many subsequent tours. It was an honour to be part of their celebration of his life and to have our dedicated guides, David and Susan, along with newcomers Martin and Chris, accompany them. Alsace is very different to other parts of France with its closeness to Germany, with some iconic dishes and some very special wines If you think you know France it’s a tour you should try! Our 2024 departure is on June 30th.

The mountains beckon!

As the temperature rose during the summer months, we sought refuge in the mountains. The legendary Alps beckoned as we explored the routes of the Tour de France. Our revamped Mythiques tour has us stay two nights on the l’Alpe allowing riders to conquer the iconic Alpe d'Huez, creating memories that will last a lifetime. We also couldn't resist the allure of climbing Mont Ventoux, a challenge embraced by our intrepid riders.

For those seeking a gentler alpine experience, we offered an unforgettable tour in the picturesque Lake Annecy region. Riders had the opportunity to choose from various route options, and for the extra adventurous, they could attempt the newest addition to the Tour de France climbs—the Col de La Loze. We were particularly proud to witness the determination of our Finnish father and son duo who conquered this formidable challenge. We were equally thrilled to welcome our youngest climbers from Australia, who amazed us with their skills and resilience. We are looking forward to seeing them back next year to perhaps take on the Pyrenees

For the conclusion to the season, click here!

2023 - A great season! - part 3

Thu, 19 Oct 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Rugby, red wine and ratatouille!

After a well-deserved break in August (our guides need holidays too, and it can be challenging to find accommodations during the peak season!), we had the pleasure of hosting our hard-core Rugby fans from Australia. They embarked on thrilling journeys through the Bordeaux and Dordogne regions, perfectly timed to coincide with the World Cup of Rugby. This unique experience allowed our guests to immerse themselves in both the world of wine and the fascinating world of Rugby mascots! We enjoyed learning about these two passions that brought our guests together, creating special memories along the way.

On our ride through the vineyards of Bordeaux, we met vignerons (and vigneronnes, of course!) who explained with passion how they create their wines. We like to visit the smaller producers who can give us a real hands-on experience rather than the slick corporate experiences of the big producers. It is sobering (!) to hear about the trials and tribulations of making a living in an age beset by the problems caused by climate change.

In the Dordogne, the world famous caves of Lascaux and the magnificent medieval town of Sarlat were among the highlights - not to forget the amazing canoe trip down the Dordogne river gazing up at the medieval châteaux of the Hundred Years war glowering down from the cliffs on both sides of the river.

Toujours Provence!

To wrap up the season, we headed to the magnificent landscapes of Provence cycling on two different routes; Luberon Valley, with its dramatic perched villages and rock formations, and the gentler Roman Heritage route, showcasing iconic Roman sites like the World Heritage site of the Pont du Gard and prestigious wine areas such as Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe. With its stunning weather, warm nights perfect for outdoor dining, and breathtaking light that has inspired countless artists, Provence never fails to impress. During our time in Provence, we had the pleasure of discovering some exceptional new restaurants. A special thanks goes to Le Mas in Les Imberts for their warm welcome and exceptional cuisine. We highly recommend a visit to this culinary gem.

One of our proudest moments was renewing the long-standing relationships we've cultivated over the past 20 years. Our Provence Roman Heritage tour, which has become a true classic in our offerings, allows us to stay at trusted hotels and dine at favourite restaurants. We are grateful to Mas de Cure Bourse, La Galoubet, and 80 Jours for always extending a warm welcome to us and our guests. They treat our guests, who are maybe passing through just one time, as if they were regular customers to be looked after These special connections make our Provence tours even more memorable.

As we end this incredible season, we would like to express our utmost gratitude to each and every one of you for your continued support and enthusiasm. Your love for cycling, adventure, and the beautiful country of France fuels our passion to provide exceptional cycling experiences. We are genuinely honoured to have been a part of your cycling journey this summer and cannot wait to welcome you back for more adventures, discoveries, and unforgettable memories.

Stay tuned for news of our 2024 season!

Provence Roman Heritage Tour - The Pont du Gard by Canoe

Mon, 18 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

Although our primary mode of transport on our cycling tours is, obviously, cycling (!) sometimes we like to break it up and swap pedals for paddles! One of our favourite canoe trips is on our Provence Roman Heritage bike vacation, and provides a unique perspective on one of the world's most impressive feats of human engineering.

Nestled in the heart of the picturesque Provence region in southern France, the journey from Collias to the Pont du Gard by canoe is a serene and enchanting adventure. Collias, a charming village on the banks of the Gardon River, serves as the starting point for this delightful excursion, offering a gateway to the captivating landscapes and ancient marvels that lie downstream.

As we embark on our canoeing expedition, the gentle current of the Gardon River carries we through a landscape rich in natural beauty. The river's crystalline waters meander through lush greenery, flanked by rugged cliffs and vibrant vegetation that create a tranquil atmosphere. The rhythmic sound of our paddle slicing through the water becomes a soothing melody, harmonizing with the symphony of nature.

The journey unfolds at a leisurely pace, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the idyllic surroundings. The banks of the river showcase the quintessential Provençal countryside, with olive groves, vineyards, and fragrant lavender fields dotting the landscape. The warm sunlight bathes the scenery in a golden glow, casting a magical ambiance over the entire experience.

As we navigate downstream, the silhouette of the Pont du Gard gradually comes into view, an awe-inspiring testament to ancient Roman engineering. This UNESCO World Heritage site, dating back to the 1st century AD, spans the Gardon River with its three-tiered arches, standing as a monumental reminder of the ingenuity of the Roman civilization.

Approaching the Pont du Gard by canoe is a unique vantage point, allowing us to appreciate the grandeur of this aqueduct from a perspective that few get to experience. The sheer magnitude of the structure, built with precision from locally quarried limestone, becomes even more impressive as we glide beneath its arches.

As we reach the shadow of the Pont du Gard, we may choose to disembark and explore the surroundings on foot. The site offers walking paths that lead to different viewpoints, allowing us to marvel at the intricate details of the aqueduct and the breathtaking panorama of the river valley. While you are exploring, the guides unload the provisions to create one of our renowned picnics on the river beach - sitting on an upturned canoe to eat lunch while gazing on a wonder of the ancient world is a memory that you will never lose!

Restaurant Spotlight : Comte Roger, Carcassonne

Mon, 18 Dec 2023 00:00:00 +0000

A highlight on our Mediterranean Coast tour is our final evening meal, at the restaurant Comte Roger, tucked away in the cobbled heart of the medieval city. We've been visiting the Comte Roger for many years, and head chef Pierre Mesa and his front of house team are always the most welcoming of hosts. The restaurant is commended in the famous Guide Michelin. The table for our group of 14 was laid out in the delightful open-air courtyard to take advantage of the late sunshine of our early summer visit; we had advised our guests to bring a cardigan, sweater or shawl in case the temperature should drop.

After settling in, aperitifs of kir or beer were ordered, at which point a selection of delicious nibbles appeared, including gruyere cheese choux pastries, paté en croûte, and anchoiade toasts. Ten minutes of studying the menus followed, with explanations and descriptions of French cookery terms provided by yours truly.

As a starter I ordered the carpaccio of octopus with mango, fennel and preserved lemon, while my neighbour, who was vegetarian, went for the velouté of root vegetables with a swirl of roquefort and chestnut emulsion. The octopus had obviously not long left the Mediterranean, it was so fresh, and beautifully complemented by the citrus marinade and crunchy fennel. If I had a complaint it would be that there was not enough of it, but I knew that my choice of main course meant that leaving a bit of room was a good idea. The soup, meanwhile, was described as "about the most delicious thing I've ever eaten" - the local fougasse bread that came with it also came in for praise.

We had ordered two wines for the table - a crisp Picpoul de Pinet from the coastal vineyards we had cycled through at the start of the week, and a robust Minervois red from the hills of Thursday's ride. The Picpoul was perfect with my octopus, and with the gravelax which other guests had chosen.

For the main course, I chose the local speciality for which Comte Roger prepares a celebrated version - Cassoulet. Cassoulet has 3 versions from neighbouring towns - Toulouse, Castelnaudary and Carcassonne - and each town fiercely proclaims the superiority of their take. All have the same base of haricot beans cooked in stock and tomato with herbs, but they differ in the meats which go into the pot. In Carcassonne, this means confit duck legs, garlic sausage and shoulder of mutton. It's peasant food elevated to gastronomy. Good job I kept some room! My vegetarian neighbour chose the vegetable cocotte with a spelt risotto (spelt is an ancient grain - you can think of it like pearl barley when put into a risotto). Other dishes which caught the eye as they arrived at the table (why do you always think "I wish I'd gone for that" even when your own dish is fabulous?) were a supreme of guinea fowl and a fantastic looking dish of seared scallops on a wild Mediterranean rice risotto. The Minervois red was a perfect choice with the cassoulet.

We had to ask our waiter if we could have a few minutes before choosing dessert, as those of us who had chosen the cassoulet were puffing a bit! For those of us who have trouble choosing, a wonderful innovation over the last few years at French restaurants has been the "café gourmande" - a coffee with a selection of mini versions of the items on the dessert menu. Of course this is what I went for! I was rewarded with miniature panna cotta, lemon mousse, chocolate financier and rum baba. The other desserts looked equally inviting, and the cheese board made sure that those with less of a sweet tooth were well catered for

All in all an epic meal to end an epic trip. Wandering back to the hotel just outside the fortified walls we could look pack and see Carcassonne lit up in all its splendour. Perfect!

French Cycling Holidays - A Culinary Odyssey Part 1

Wed, 31 Jan 2024 00:00:00 +0000

French Cycling Holidays – A Culinary Odyssey – part one - The Mediterranean and Canal du Midi

One of the main reasons to visit France is the contribution the country has made to the world of fine food and drink. We were going to write an article with a few of the highlights, but as soon as we started we realised that there were far too many to be covered in one piece!

So, we are going to highlight the spectacular food and drink that each region has contributed and that you will sample with a hearty appetite on our fantastic cycling tours. We will start, as we start our biking season, in the South…

…in the fascinating port city of Sète, the launching point for our Mediterranean and the Canal du Midi tour. Sète sits with the Mediterranean on one side, and on the other the huge lagoon of the Etang de Thau (pronounced “Etong de Toe”). The Etang is one of France’s foremost producers of shellfish, and these feature heavily in the region’s specialities. We’ll take a look at a couple of Sètoise specialities.

Tielles de Sète

For lunch, don’t miss the town’s most famous delicacy, the Tielle Sètoise. Tielles are delicious pies, similar to Spanish empanadas, filled with octopus and other seafood, all in a spicy tomato sauce. The pastry is based on bread pastry, and the steam released on cooking gives the crust a lovely soft consistency. A Tielle, a side of salad, and a chilled rosé des sables – lunch perfection!

Bourride Sètoise

In the evening, stay with the seafood theme and try the stunning Bourride Sètoise. The Languedoc answer to Marseille’s Bouillabaisse, Bourride is principally a monkfish stew with a few other white fish varieties, like bass, hake and turbot also allowed. It is cooked in white wine, and lemon juice with tomatoes, leeks and potatoes and flavoured with thyme, bay and orange peel; crème fraiche is then added to give a velvety consistency. Finally it is served with aioli, the pungent garlic-laden mayonnaise of the region. To cut through the richness, the locals drink the local speciality white wine, Picpoul de Pinet, made in the plain behind the lagoon – wine experts regularly choose Picpoul as the number 1 choice for accompanying seafood.

Noilly Prat

Along the coast from Sète in the little fishing village of Marseillan, is a hidden gastronomic gem. On the harbourside, where the sea breezes can add their tang to the maturing barrels, we find the vermouth producers Noilly Prat. The company was started in Marseillan in 1851, and the process has remined the same to the present day. Noilly Prat is made exclusively from white grape varieties grown in the Marseillan area, Picpoul and Clairette. These produce light, fruity wines which are matured in massive Canadian oak casks inside the original storerooms. The wine stays in these casks for 8 months, maturing and absorbing the flavour of the wood, before being transferred to smaller oak barrels which are taken outside and left for a year. Here they are exposed to the sun, wind, and low winter temperatures, while the wine is slowly changing. The result is a wine that is dry, full-bodied and amber coloured, similar to Madiera or Sherry.

The wines are then blended together into oak casks. A small quantity of Mistelle (grape juice and alcohol) is added to the wines in order to soften them. In the oak casks, a process of maceration, supposedly unique to Noilly Prat, takes place over a period of three weeks. A blend of some twenty herbs and spices is added by hand every day. The exact mix of herbs and spices that goes into Noilly Prat is a closely guarded secret, but camomile, orange peel, nutmeg, yellow gentian, coriander and cloves. After a further six weeks, the finished product is ready for bottling. Our visit to Noilly Prat (with extensive tasting!) is one of the highlights of the tour.

Wines of the Minervois

As we head way from the Mediterranean, into the foothills of the Montagnes Noire (Black Mountains) we are cycling through the oldest wine producing region of France, the Minervois. Stretching from the medieval stronghold of Minerve (another tour highlight) down to the Canal du Midi, Minervois reds have enjoyed a huge improvement in reputation since the days when rotgut Vin de Table was the staple produce. An influx of modern winemakers from other parts of France and the New World have been producing world-beating velvety red wines for the last couple of decades, which can be bought for eye-openingly low prices. Syrah (Shiraz) and Grenache are the predominant grape varieties, with additional varieties like Cinsault, Carignan, Picpoul Noir and Terret also making their way into the blend. These varieties are also the make-up for the legendary Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe – Minervois reds can be had for a fraction of the price. What better to accompany your Cassoulet de Carcassonne…?

Speaking of which...

Cassoulet de Carcassonne

Carcassonne is the final stop on our Mediterranean and Canal du Midi tour, and is home to the celebrated Cassoulet. Carcassonne, known for its medieval fortress and rich history, has its own unique take on this famous dish, which reflects the local culinary traditions and ingredients of the area.

The history of Cassoulet de Carcassonne is intertwined with the broader history of cassoulet itself, with each region in the Languedoc adding its own twist to the recipe over the centuries.

In the case of Cassoulet de Carcassonne, the dish typically features white beans (often haricot beans), various meats such as pork shoulder, Toulouse sausage (a type of pork sausage seasoned with garlic and spices), and duck confit. Duck confit, a method of preserving duck meat by slow-cooking it in its own fat, is a signature ingredient in the Carcassonne version of Cassoulet.

What sets Cassoulet de Carcassonne apart from other variations is its use of local ingredients and flavours. Carcassonne is situated in the heart of the Cathar country, and its cuisine reflects influences from both French and Catalan traditions.

The dish is typically slow-cooked for several hours, allowing the flavours to meld together and the meats to become tender and succulent. The result is a rich and hearty one-pot meal that is perfect for warming up on a cold day and is often enjoyed with a crusty baguette and a glass of robust red wine. We always offer Cassoulet on the final evening of our tour, and one thing you won't be at the end of the trip is hungry!