The perfect patisserie for cyclists? Meet the Paris Brest
It may not be the most decadent or exotic choice from the patisserie counter, but look beyond the burnished berries and glossy chocolate to a more humble, beige beauty: the Paris Brest.
What is a Paris Brest?
Simple in format, the basis of a Paris Brest is choux pastry (the same as an éclair or profiterole) in roughly the shape and size of a ring doughnut. But a doughnut/donut, it is most certainly not! This morsel of magnificence is as light as air but with an indulgent rich cream, and has strict limitations as to its flavour profile… Let us explain:
Choux batter is piped into a ring, sprinkled with toasted nuts and baked. The cooked ring is then sliced in half through the centre, like a bagel. A filling of crème mousseline flavoured with praliné is liberally piped on the lower half, then the top is replaced. As a modest decoration, the top is showered with nuts (flaked almonds or toasted hazelnuts) and a waft of icing sugar. Et voila, your Paris Brest, messieurs dames.
A picture perfect Paris Brest decorated with flowers. Image by Nadeykina Evgeniya
What a Paris Brest is not!
There are many, many cakes on offer in a patisserie, how will you know which one is a Paris Brest?
The answer is, that they are classic and are therefore usually very similar.
OK, yes, you might encounter variations or interpretations on a theme. Size, for example. Though mostly spotted inhabiting the individual cake compartment of the patisserie, you may also find a large version within the sharing cakes section.
A Paris Brest is always praliné flavoured: toasted nuts (usually hazelnuts but sometimes almonds) are added to caramel and blended up to give a sweet, nutty paste. This flavouring is added to the crème mousseline which is crème patisserie whisked with melted butter. Chocolate, coffee, caramel, raspberry, blueberry, lemon… These are not flavours you’ll find in a traditional Paris Brest!
However, sometimes the decoration can sway towards a more elaborate style, for example with chocolate swirls, spun sugar, caramel dribbles, edible flowers…
Irresistible: lingering at the windows of French patisseries is one of our favourite pastimes... Image by Natalia Y.
What's the link between Paris Brest and cycling?
Does the shape of the Paris Brest remind you of anything? That’s right, a wheel...
Let’s turn back the clock to 1910 to discover the history of this delectable treat
Pâtissier Louis Durand was an amateur cyclist and keen follower of the Paris–Brest–Paris (PBP) long-distance cycle race which passed within a few kilometres of the doorstep of the Durand bakery in the Maisons-Laffitte area of northwest Paris. To celebrate the thrilling sporting event and his own love for cycling, he created a new cake in the shape of a bicycle wheel.
It was an instant hit, according to the current owner’s mother who worked in the shop at the time: “Right from the start, people used to queue up to taste THE Paris Brest of Monsieur Durand.”
- Go to Patisserie Durand website to tantalise your tastebuds from afar
About the Paris-Brest-Paris cycle race
Cast your mind back to the late 19th Century, when daring sporting feats by moustachioed gentlemen regularly hit the headlines. The British designed Penny Farthing bicycle had appeared in 1879, with its radial spokes, ball-bearings, and caliper brakes. Designs for gear shifts were being patented from 1877. As manufacturing capability improved comfort and affordability of bike design, cycling became ever more popular. The first rear-wheel-drive bicycle, with a chain connecting the pedals to the rear wheel, was mass-produced in 1880 in England and was followed by John Kemp Starley’s “Rover” in 1885. And then, pneumatic wheels hit the market in 1888. Cycling was becoming safer and more comfortable!
Long distance rides were becoming feasible. The first edition of Milano-Torino was held in 1876. In the US, Thomas Stevens rode between Boston and San Francisco in 1887, by which time cycling competitions were attracting a lot of attention, despite the pitiful state of the roads.
The Paris-Brest-Paris cycle race
The Paris-Brest-Paris started in 1891 (the same year as the Bordeaux-Paris), and – like many sporting/adventures around that time – was a challenge set by Le Petit Journal newspaper in the hopes of boosting sales. The response was overwhelming and numbers had to be limited.
Cyclists had to carry their own food and equipment, and use the same bike for the whole duration.
The 206 Frenchmen (the seven females who applied were refused entry) who crossed the starting line were permitted 10 days maximum to make the distance of 1200km each way. Of these, only 100 returned within the limit. The winner was 34-year-old Frenchman Charles Terront on a British-made Humber with removable pneumatic tyres weighing an estimated 21kg.
Charles Terront in Le Petit Journal, from Henri Meyer / Fortuné Méaulle
This impressive athlete become one of cycling’s major stars, and won 150 events during his career which took him from St Petersburg in Russia to Paris, and also from Rome, Italy back to the capital.
The last professional race was held in 1951, although it still runs as an amateur ride. If you visit Brest, in Brittany, in the western part of France, then you can see a plaque dedicated to Charles Terront.
Where can I try a Paris Brest?
Whilst you could put aside some time to make a homemade version of this iconic cake, we highly recommend trying one when refuelling on one of our French cycle tours! This gateau dedicated to the joy of cycling can be found in almost any French patisserie, such is its status as a classique of French cuisine.
Ask your cycle guides to keep an eye out for patisseries during your week's cycling holiday and they will help you hunt down one of these legendary gateaux (and may well order one for themselves too!)
All in the name of research - it's important to compare and contrast different patisseries' offerings!
Gourmet cycle tours in France
As you peruse our website, you may notice that we are as fond of eating our way around France as we are of cycling around it! Including foodie experiences, tastings and exploring French culture through its cuisine is definitely a major area of focus from our bike routes around the French countryside.
If there are any other classic dishes, ingredients or foods that you'd like to try whilst in France, don't hesitate to let us know when you get in touch! (We can even organise private tours to fit around your foodie requirements, eg. a particular restaurant or winery...)
If you have any other questions, we're always very happy to chat. Here's how you can contact us:
- fch@frenchcyclingholidays.com
- +44(0) 1923 894305 or +44(0)20 8357 8934
- Website contact form
- More French gourmet inspiration from our blog