The Canal du Midi: the history behind the cycling destination
Water in France’s Canal du Midi has flowed between the Atlantic and Mediterranean for over three centuries, thanks to the realisation by mastermind Pierre-Paul Riquet of a long-held dream to unite the two coasts.
The steady stream of wine and wheat through this vital artery was accompanied by people from all walks of life. Beyond its legacy as an important trade route, along this waterway, cultures were connected, bridges were built, horizons were broadened. This is one of Europe’s oldest canals and to explore this romantic waterway by bike is to slow down and take a step back in time, breathing in centuries of history and absorbing a quintessentially French way of life.
Discover the Canal du Midi by bike
Come with us and we will discover this iconic feat of human ingenuity which weaved its way into France's history and culture and is now enjoyed by holidaymakers seeking relaxation within its tree-lined banks...
Boats on the Canal du Midi. (Credit: Brian Scott)
Canal du Midi interesting facts
- Length: 240 km from Toulouse to Marseillan
- Minimum depth: 1.8m
- Summit: Seuil de Naurouze
- Built between 1667 – 1681
- Designed by Pierre-Paul Riquet who died in 1680 and did not see his life’s work completed
- Financed by the King (Louis XIV), the province, and Riquet
- Part of the project included the world’s first canal through a tunnel: the Malpas Tunnel
- Originally called Canal Royal en Languedoc and renamed after the French Revolution
- Became recognised by UNESCO as a creation of 'outstanding universal value' in 1996
A French Cycling Holidays group by the bridge in Beziers, France
Where is the Canal du Midi?
The Canal du Midi is in south-west France, and traverses the Haute-Garonne, Aude and Hérault departments of France, and includes the Tarn for the water supply system.
In Toulouse, it meets the Canal de Garonne which continues into the river Garonne and to the Atlantic coast. These two canals are named ‘Canal des Deux Mers’.
Map showing the location of the Canal du Midi linking to the Canal de Garonne in southwest France [Attribution: Pinpin via Wikipedia Commons ]
How, when and why was the Canal du Midi Built?
The Canal du Midi was designed by Pierre-Paul Riquet. His extensive studies led him to resolve a centuries-old problem: how to link the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, thereby avoiding traders' perilous journey around the Iberian Peninsula and Gibraltar Strait.
From Roman Emperors to French Kings, many had previously wrestled with the logistics of creating such a route, but Riquet’s in-depth research led him to believe that the solution was to bring water from the Montagne Noire using an irrigation system. In 1665 he created an experimental test channel, wrote a letter to King Louis XIV to explain his plans, and the rest is history.
Portrait of Pierre-Paul Riquet
Work on the canal commenced in 1667, dug manually by farmers and local labourers using shovels and pickaxes. Riquet was a forward-thinking employer who paid a living wage and also recruited women who were knowledgeable about hydraulics from their experience of Roman baths in the Pyrenees.
From its original use as an important trade route for cereals, fruit and wine in boats hauled by men with tow ropes, this monument of civil engineering paved the way for the Industrial Revolution. Horse towing drove efficiency, then eventually steam power took over, serving a flourishing postal service and early leisure tourism.
But as Europe invested more into steam railways and then road transport, the canal’s importance as a trade route dwindled, despite the adoption of motorised barges. As freight traffic diminished, so leisure use increased, and nowadays the Canal du Midi accounts for one fifth of France’s river tourism. Canoeing, fishing, rowing, cycling and walking are all popular canal activities, and holidaymakers cruise its length, enjoying the tranquil pace of life and visiting the villages and points of interest along the way.
Peaceful moments on the Canal du Midi. Photo credit: Steve Douglas
What is it like to cycle along the Canal du Midi?
It is possible to cycle the entire Canal des Deux Mers from Sète to Bordeaux. One of the most fabulous things about this route is the gentle cycle path riding, well away from busy roads and accessible for less experienced and less sporty cyclists. The canal's banks are dotted with residential barges and boats, as well as restaurants, cafés, galleries and even floating theatres, and there are plenty of points of interest along the route, and opportunities to visit the local villages, markets, bars and restaurants.
On our French Cycling Holidays’ guided Mediterranean and Midi tour in this stunning region of south west France, we begin with two nights in either Béziers (birthplace of Pierre-Paul Riquet) or the historical town of Pézenas.
After getting to know the evocative bustling seaside town of Sète and/or the Etang de Thau, famous for its wonderful shellfish, we might also indulge in a Noilly Prat tasting. (If you haven’t tried this vermouth, we wholeheartedly recommend this experience, always one of ours riders’ tour highlights!)
Once acquainted with the sights, smells and sounds of the Mediterranean, we head inland, taking the Canal du Midi itself. Together we ride along the towpath past unhurried boats and barges, cycling past the iconic plane and willow trees planted by Riquet to reinforce the canal's banks, and the fruit trees grown by the lock-keepers' cottages. We catch glimpses of wildlife: muskrats stealthily creeping along the banks, herons looking for fish, graceful swans, flitting dragonflies, the bright blue flash of a European roller bird, or even a viperine water snake!
Our final destination is Carcassonne, where we admire the iconic architecture and atmosphere of this wonderful fortress which fizzes with history.
Some of our favourite features of the canal side ride include:
- A coffee stop in Colombiers
- The Oppidum d’Enserune, a 6th century BC hilltop town
- Views of the Lac de Montady
- Lunch or a drink at Capestang
- The legendary fortress of Carcassonne
View of Carcassonne's magnificent fortress. Credit: Hugo Margolles
Is a Canal du Midi cycle tour for me?
Anyone who is in good physical condition will be happy on this cycling tour, which features mostly flat terrain with just a few rolling sections. Cyclists should be comfortable with riding 3-5 hours a day on a bike, so some cycling experience is necessary.
At French Cycling Holidays, we specialist in guided tours, so all you need to think about is pedalling! We provide bikes, helmets, water bottles. But it's not just this equipment that makes our holidays stand out from the crowd: our guides' routes are carefully chosen to showcase the best of the area, highlighting France's culture, history, and way of life (including food and drink of course!)
Our bilingual guides take care of the smallest details, from picking you up at the train station to managing the hotel reservations, restaurant tables, coffee stops, picnics, and technical support. Our guides work in pairs to ride with you (no need to keep checking the map!) and drive your luggage to the next destination, or even meet you to provide a picnic or more water, a change of clothing etc.
If you enjoy the freedom and pace of cycling on leisurely cycle paths, whether in a mixed group or a private tour, whilst chatting with our knowledgeable guides, then a French Cycling Holiday is for you!
How to find out more:
- Learn more about the Mediterranean and Canal du Midi tour (what's included, travel options, pricing, dates etc.)
- Find out about the French Cycling Holidays team and ethos
- Ask us a question via phone or email: go to our Contact page
- Learn about A Day in the Life on a cycle tour with our guides
- Look at our Instagram or Facebook pages for pictures from the road
Henri Matisse's evocative painting of the Canal du Midi (1898)
Featured image: View of the medieval city of Béziers in southern France, with Pont Vieux in the foreground and the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral in the distance. Credit: Sue Winston